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No, it's not true. I think liquid is better for the machine than powder, which tends to form residues that can rot interior parts of the machine. Liquid is also mor likely to get measured accurately. Some people tend to just pour powder into the drawer until it's full, which is wasteful and...

Some machines have a double solenoid valve which has an extra solenoid for the fabric conditioner rinse, supplying water to the conditioner compartment of the soap drawer. This half of the valve may be faulty.

May be a burnt out solenoid coil in the hot water valve or even a problem with your hot water plumbing to the machine. Hot water is not used for some programmes so they would still work OK.

At the moment I'm using an old Indesit machine with a temperature dial. I set the programme to 60 or 90 degrees but leave the temperature dial set at 45 degrees. It always fills with hot and cold mixed on these settings anyway so it never starts off too hot.

Remove the outer kitchen cabinet door and see if that makes a difference. If it still won't shut, you should be safe to call Whirlpool. If the fault is with your installation rather than the machine they are liable to charge you for the visit.

Set the machine for a hot wash, wait until it stops filling up then change the programme to your usual one. :D

Possibly a faulty relay on the circuit board. Have you tried various programmes, boil wash, rinse, half load etc to see if it always does this?

It could have been the heater burning out or it may be the edge of the drum rubbing against the rubber door seal, though that would create a rubber type smell. In either case you need to check for play in the drum. Hold the inner edge of the door seal with one hand and try to move the stainless...

I don't think the SE models had the mechanism you speak of. It is actually a device to stop you opening the door when the drum is turning. The cable goes to the door switch and has a knife edge that swings to one side when it touches the moving belt but presses against the belt if the drum is...

Sorry, yes Keith is right. I should have said the meter probe on the second test should go to the spade terminal of the brush wire with the spade disconnected from the brush, otherwise you are getting a connection via the other brush.

Yes, it sounds like it is not draining properly. I'm not familiar with your model but on most Hotpoints you can drain the water out by gravity if you put the outlet hose into a bucket at floor level. Once empty you can check for an obstruction in the pump or associated hoses. You can also check...

Another option is a condensing box to collect the moisture. Any shop that sells appliance spares and accessories should stock these and they are not expensive.

Just to double check you can put your meter leads between the 2 brush terminals and read the resistance which should be about 2 or 3 ohms. If this is correct there may be another fault in the motor. There is a device called a thermal overload cutout (TOC) inside the motor, connected in series...

Bosch are good but don't expect to get 30 years out of it. If you can still get parts for your existing machine it is more by luck than design. There are still some of the old AEG 2 door machines around (the Centurian tank of washing machines) but even these now have to be scrapped when the...

About a week ago I fitted two five foot fluorescent lights with opal diffusers in a long kitchen. They were for an old lady in the household who wanted brighter lighting as her sight was going. I have now been asked by her daughter to change them again, perhaps for shorter ones as they are...

If you look carefully at the insulation material at the end of your commutator you may well find it is cracked. Carbon dust can lodge in such a crack, forming an earth leakage path. Alternatively, you may have shorted turns in the armature due to overheating and melting of the insulation...

You don't have to have a standpipe, you can get a conical fitting for the outlet hose. These are usually part of a sink trap but I have seen such a cones used in a standard 1 1/2" compression elbow, coupling or tee fitting.

Yes, you need to make sure the waste hose goes up high enough at some point so that water can't flow down hill and out of the machine by gravity. You might need to tie the pipe to something to form a loop above the maximum height of water in the drum and above the waste connection on your house...

Sounds like the belt has come off. If you take the back off you will see :wink:

The ball you describe is indeed a non return valve, to prevent the machine from filling up with waste water from the kitchen sink etc. These can sometimes cause problems and I remove them in some cases. You don't need this ball if the machines drain hose drops into the top of a standpipe but it...