Search results

My flu position is laid in bed supping a lem-sip If you want to know where the flue can go. Look it up in the manufacturers instructions :wink:

What is it you need? Glow worm are their UK representative. Dont expect anything in a hurry though. It took me 6 weeks to get a pressure vessel. By the time I received it someone else had already changed the boiler! Most versions have an equivalent Pro-therm model

This might do the trick for the corgi guy you should get to do the work. From that link:- Otherwise regular copper pipe should be in an accessible duct.

Your pressure is way too high but that wont stop the heating coming on. Are you getting any hot water? Are all the controls calling for heat? What do you have by way of controls? [roomstats, timers, fused switches etc?] You may need an RGI in to check that they are working properly.

If your existing boiler is still functional or repairable do some more sums. Taking into account the cost of the new boiler, installation, powerflush, compliance with all regs and increased parts and repair costs that you will have; simply because there are more parts in a new boiler to go...

If you take the initiative and at least inform the HSE then you can say that you acted with the best interests in case a court ever decided that you or any of your co workers either corporately or individually had a duty of care.

It does seem to be a very industry related quango but I am sure if you call them and they can't help then they would soon point you in the right direction

Here's the link

I sorted time zone thing out now. To answer the question any such incident would become reportable to the HSE under RIDDOR regs

How come you made this post tomorrow? EDIT NO worries I guess I got the time zone wrong in the profile

does this help?

I would call that a mixer tap rather than a pillar tap :? It could be that theres a 'spout end' missing. A lot of new taps have aerators on them and perhaps yours has fell off or something? Has your tap been fitted in accordance with the instructions? Click this Personally I would...

:? :? :? :? :? :? :? :? Turn off 'now all only' 6 other rads and the water should pump through to the 'now all only' other one which probably has an airlock in the pipework that leads to it. Make sure the heating system is off when you bleed rads

I would have started off by spending a small amount of money just eliminating the thermistors. Normally just the CH one but in this instance the DHW one as well. Are they clip on or screw in? I always carry thermistors just 4 testing. You could use say a 10k resistor to test if what you spent...

You must just have the user instructions or perhaps just old instructions. I found the following info in the MI's Type of fault :- Possible cause:-

I am finding it hard to get my head around the question. Time for a sketch with dimensions perhaps? One good way of sussing out jobs like this is to sit the 'large one' on a throne and get busy with a tape measure

You are dead right DIA! I missed the bit above when I read the original post. What I meant was that in general there are still a lot of undersized pipework situations about but at least I am more sure now that the OP wont die.

I haven't a clue, sorry :(

You might qualify for a warmfront grant

Here are my answers to some rather crucial questions you may have. More normal than it should be. For years cowboys and even some who are now RGI's have been undersizing pipework. Is it right? Probably not. It should be checked and put right. Occasionally the combi is within 3 metres...