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See pic below - if the top part of the valve is loose - tighten the collar below it - if its loose it may not hold the valve closed properly - and may leak If its the valve 'body' thats loose on the pipe - then you tighten the nut below it. Edit - oops too slow...

As DoItAll says, this suggests the problem isn't neccessarily the boiler since your cold is also suffering - and this does not pass thru the boiler on way to cold taps. Possibly you have more than one stopcock and the garden tap is fed after the first one, and the rest of house brances off...

You mean this sort of thing? Post base Although the bracket is meant to be concreted in, you could if wanted, simply bolt down thru centre hole, or slide over some threaded studding stuck into ground and then secured with washer and nut. Either way would succeed in keeping the post away...

Well given that flow rate, unless you have really bad pressure, you should still get most of the 22L/min. Does sound like problem with piping, Ensure any service valves around boiler are fully open - including the service valves inside boiler casing (front @ bottom). The pipe shouldn't be...

Have you re-checked your cold mains flow rate now? ie at the kitchen tap or Garden tap? Fill a bucket etc and time it.

As wingcoax has just suggested you likely have a poor contact somewhere - high resistance - so as soon as the load is connected the 'phantom' voltage drops off. Multi-meter really is your best bet for testing - not much hope otherwise! :wink:

I would suggest that possibly your old timer only switched the Live so: On your old one... 1. Live input 2. Neutral Input These two powered the timer itself, then 3 + 4 were the switching terminals? 3. Bridged from the incoming live 4. Output when active - i.e switched to term 3. This...

Actually doubt the mk2 would work on yours - worcester prob changed something (deliberatley) so it wont. Best bet would be to check with Worcester technical though! Sorry! :? Looks like normal Wireless stat programmer is gonna be your best bet. Joe

I've taken this excerpt from the instructions for the Mk2 digistat. Radio signal range The range may be affected by the composition / density and number of walls between the Digistat RF and receiver. 30 metres typically, through two internal plasterboard walls and a ceiling. 26 metres...

The new Worcester Programmable Roomstat RF (DT10RF MK2) should be available easily from local merchants, but other wireless stats would be even easier to find - and much cheaper. The worcester one appears to be a drayton Digistat+ 2 RF, but obviously with a modified receiver to plug directly...

Hi, First unless you get a compatible replacement thermostat (poss unlikely) you will want to remove the current one from fascia and replace with the blanking plate (which you prob wont have...) The only terminals out of the three you need to care about if fitting new Digi Programmable...

Looking at your pic, and if the direction of the combi valve is correct, it seems that the combi vale does all, if not most of the cold supply. Turning off the black plastic lever will isolate the megaflow, and prob most of the bathroom taps. Don't need to touch the other black knob further...

You may not have closed off the mains for the Megaflow. Follow the cold mains pipe into the megaflow back along, there will normally be a valve within the vicinity of the Cylinder. The cold inlet is at the lower left of cylinder, with a blue collar around the pipe. You should find the...

Hi, Sounds like you may have closed the main Flow/Return isolators under the boiler, these should be left open (the slot parallel/ inline with the pipe). To fill/re-pressurise the boiler (what it sounds like your trying to do), you should look under the boiler on the 4 th pipe (from left)...

Hi, yes - it was defo the expasion vessel you emptied... It WILL need to be recharged, else the system water has no real expansion ability (other than any remaining air in system) and so will expel system water out through the PRV. As Mulls76 says there may have been some air trapped that...

You would want something along the lines of this Thermal Switch The web page has errors in listing -it appears they got confused with opening/closing specs! Basically you would want a thermal switch that is N/O (normally open), that closes at ~40c to switch on fan (presuming there is...

From what your describing, it sounds like your boiler is working fine. I know what you mean about the boiler when it 'really' decides to GO...it fires up to basically full rate and continues until flow reaches required. I have known them to sometimes take a while longer in their 'test'...

Hi Paul, Do you have any knowledge/experience of electrics? If so you could check to see if the programmer is giving a output (240V) on programmer pin 6 (HW ON) - if it isn't, then providing there is 240V at pin 8 - the internal relay has died... If there is an output on pin 6 - then...

Hi, Had briefly looked at it the other day, but did mean to go back an have a thorough read of it, will need to do that now - I'm sure it would be one of the easier ones to get. I did wonder if this unit was what keston used, but Plumb center were able to track down the specific one keston...

Evening all, Hoping someone may have some experience and be able to recommend a multiple boiler controller using the 'open therm' protocols? Basically we've got two Keston C55's, and going to be running them cascade style, were planning to use one of their mulit-rig controllers, but...