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Sounds more like residual heat making the noise in the heat exchanger. Usually due to a part blocked exchanger. Other problem could be a slow moving diaphragm on the diverted, it sometimes takes just a second longer to shut off the hw demand switch and the boiler keeps firing on high...

Likely just a faulty thermistor. It's the part that measures the heating water temperature. Seen this a few times, assuming the boiler isn't firing and raising temperature really quickly. Decent boiler guy is the answer.

cheers, that makes sense, called the garage this morning and mechanic said to give it a burn up the duel carriageway, lights now off, he thinks coincidence. The cooler looks really exposed though, no cover to protect. Its bound to get damaged right behind the front wheel!!

Hi all, Hit something in the road today while driving through the snow. Might have been a lump of ice. It's caused some damage underneath the van, citroe n berlingo mk3. There's a dent in what looks like a small radiator and broke the plastic cover over w hat I think is the eolys tank...

hes right in saying it might not solve the problem, if there is a blockage and its not in the circuit then power fle=ushing wont shift it. First thing is to check if the cold feed is clear, this sometimes involves cutting into it to physically check for blockages. common places are where it...

Ah, ok. You will need to connect the flow after the valve ( heating flow) and the return should be upstream of the hot water return t piece. General rule is the hot water return should connect last on the main return to boiler. Hard to say without seeing it but if not connected this way new rads...

Is the Drayton valve not connected to the heating, you said three way valve?? Or is it one fitted next to the cylinder. Do you have to turn off rads at the trv's in the summer. If you connect the rad at the boiler before pump it will heat up in the summer when hot water only on.

This could either be a blocked cold feed pipe from the f& e tank or air locked pipes although sound like he took the thermostat phial to to boil the boiler and try and shift air. It's probably best to get him to get into the feed pipe first to see if its blocked.

Depends if you have zone valves/ valve after the pump.

It's overheating for some reason on heating, could be a blockage in heating circuit or a weak pump. Does every radiator have a thermostat on it? Did you flush out system after x800? If its making that noise in such a short space of time the heats not getting away from boiler properly.

Hoping some oil guys can help me with this one or if they have come across this before, the boiler keeps locking out every two to three weeks, reset and goes no problem for another couple of weeks. It's a sterling 133 burner. Totally random lockout, when its going all seems to be working...

Thanks for the reply Tony , Main prob is her guttering leaking onto our wall, also there is unfinished render. Only finished to scratch coat and I think the frost is getting into our wet dash were it joins. Besides that it looks awful and if we decide to sell probably put off buyers.

I'm hoping someone could give me some advice, Our neighbour some time ago has converted part of their house ( the garage) into bedrooms. Our houses are semi detached cottages. I know they had planning permission and a building warrant but there is no record of a completion certificate. The...

does sound like gravity. If it is there will be a pump likely next to boiler and usually 4 pipes connected to the boiler itself, 2 for heating and 2 for hot water. The boiler is firing so electrical side ok. If the tank is full then likely blocked cold feed or air in the system. are the...

your boiler could be gravity hot water. see if there are two large pipes rising up from boiler towards hot water tank position. If this is the case air cand gather in these pipes stopping circulation ar the header tank in attic could be dry or have a blocked cold feed. If its gravity there...

its got to be going somewhere, could be a leaking heat exchanger, the water will drain through the condensate pipe. with the boiler off disconnect this below the boiler, pressurise and then see if any water starts coming out. when you say instantly can you see the gauge dropping?

don't know if you have bought your stuff yet but all you need is the expansion vessel and bracket, a 3/4 female x 22mm compression fitting and a 22 compression equal t. cut t into return pipe below boiler, bit of copper to connect vessel and thats it. The boilers prv is fine to use as is the...

Not to worry its a bugger to get in sometimes, next time put a bit soap or washing up liquid on the o rings on the key, it'll go home a lot easier.

ah more info, agree, if the boilers on and burning gas there is a call for hot water. Get someone to diagnose it properly before you spend money on parts.

Ok, was just asking to see what options you have. The thermostat should have a neutral but t was often missed out. It needs this to operate properly. If it has one just change it for a standard 240v one. If the neutral is missing buy a battery operated 2wire thermostat that's ok with 240v...