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Yes, I'm sure the push pad turns the spindle, as does the outside access device. However I'm going to have to ditch the idea of using that push pad; it's far too bulky and catches the door frame when trying to open the door out. I'll need something much less obtrusive such as that ERA door knob...

I should add that the only thing stopping me from fitting a standard sash lock is the mortise and tenon joint in the frame just at the point that the lock would be installed, preventing me from cutting out a pocket in the door frame. Hence my search for a surface mounted equivalent. However...

I have bought a used Briton 1413 outside access device I could try, but it's designed for panic exits and a bit ugly: And looking around elsewhere I've found things like this: https://www.toolstation.com/era-door-knob-set/p29779

OK, yes, you're right. Well the deadbolt bit is potentially covered by this then. But my main concern is just a latch I can open from the outside with a handle for frequent opening throughout the day. With this I'd need a key to open it from the outside each time and two hands. I'd like...

Yes, it may be what I end up fitting to my Garden Side Gate I think. But I'm inclined to just go with my Briton emergency access lock for the garage, as odd as it looks, or something like this? https://www.toolstation.com/era-door-knob-set/p29779 Maybe security would be right up there with...

Thanks. Yes, I've got one of those. The problem is it's designed to fit on the inside. But I need to open and close it from the outside. Also, the door now opens out so I'm not sure if that would still be suitable.

Thank you, that is interesting. I looked at these before for my garden side gate, but wanted something more susbstantial so bought a Yale British Standard night latch. However I can see the advantage of this in that it will provide more allowance through the seasons as the doors swell, shrink...

That's a security bar for a shed. I'm after a nice lock with a handle that can be opened and locked from the outside. Hopefully in brushed stainless steel, or similar. The Briton 1413 Outside Access Device‎ I've bought is fine, however it's a bit ugly to look at. I can get a similar one from...

Hi all, I've got some old timber sliding barn doors on the back of my garage. The were completely rotten after 100 years of service so we've cut off the bottoms and refurbished them with new wood. I've made the first two panels fixed now and the third panel is still a door. Before it used to...

Thanks for the advice in the thread. This is where I've got to, and it's a happy compromise between ripping out the old doors and raising the roof right up and what was originally built: Basically trimmed the bottoms of the doors off and fitted new wood, replaced the frame and head...

Yes, I can see that now, there's a change in the brick work and pebble dash at that point. The original doors must have been where the structural beam sits. I've been here since 1980, so that would have been done in the 70's or before. As much as I want exactly the result you're proposing, it...

Yes indeed, I'm going to scale this job back as you suggest. I'll be having a couple of guys doing this, but they are joiners first, builders second, so they will mainly be restoring the doors and frame. I'll leave the beam where it is but maybe gain 10 - 15cm of headroom just by redoing the...

Hi all, I picked up 12 Indian Limestone slabs which are black in colour for a givaway price on eBay. Unfortunately I didn't realise they were heavily weathered and the surface is silver/grey and flaking away sheets. As they're slightly riven I thought it must be possible to polish them to match...

Hi all, I want to raise the rear roof of my garage because the timber barn doors on it are rotten and at about 1.75m there’s limited headroom for replacement doors (or standard uPVC French Doors for example). The garage is a lean-to next to the house. The pitched roof of the garage seems to...

Thank you for the journey Al! Your's was the inspiration behind my build (which I pulled down and started again following your advice). I hope you use the knowledge you gained to take on greater challenges in the future. Or else just kick back and enjoy what you have! All the best.

Thanks. Yeah, I'll probably use it tomorrow anyway because I won't have time for other screws to arrive. Over spec is OK, it'll mean that the side hanging off the stud will be compensating for the side hanging on the plasterboard. No harm done (y)

Sorry to bang on, but I got the measurements wrong of that screw that came supplied with the radiator; it’s an M8, 55mm with 13mm head. My question is simply whether or not this screw would be suitable to go into the vertical timber stud, or if I need to order appropriate wood screws - M6 70mm...

OK, got it. So if I get a couple of 20mm Brown Gripit Fixings for the two brackets going into my plasterboard, they should accommodate M6x30mm Bolts. The bolts supplied seem like M5x50mm ones for masonary walls. So for the brackets going into my timber stud would 4 5x50mm wood screws do the job?

So, my radiator arrived today, which weighs in at 16kg and came with large brackets and screws which seem much more substantial that the ones with my Grip it 18mm fixings: There are 4 brackets and 8 screws. Obviously with the Grip It ones they won't be able to fit close enough to use...

I just watched a quick video from Kingspan: ..and it does say that if you install the PIR boards flush with the inside wall just behind the plasterboard, as I have, that you should fit battens behind it as 'stops' to prevent it moving into the cavity at the back of the studs. That's the way...