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SPM Granite their based in Southend but cover the whole country

i looked at your pictures but i failed to see a damp course line in the brickwork?? condensation wont give you damp on the outside of the brickwork i would advise getting a specialist out to look. not a general builder but a damp and water restoration company. i can recommend chem-dry as a...

i agree with Mr Foxhole more information is needed type of window type of walls type of blind I've just fitted some Venetian blinds round a bay window and i installed a timber batten first, but in the bathroom i fix in to the wall and in the kitchen i fix into the UPVC window. it...

use self leveling you said about the extra cost one bag of suitable self leveling is a lot cheaper than using tile adhesive to fill up the space between the wires. mix your leveling compound and apply it with a plastering trowel so it only just covers the cables. then tile as...

It might be ok but it could set hard in minutes normally in the bucket, then you need a new bucket as well. My advice buy a new bag

15 years of being in the trade and one god awful apprentice. It's not how you mess it up. its how you cover it up

external grade PVA you can get it in most shops (B&Q, Jewsons etc) i thing evo-stik put it in a blue bottle

where the handles screw on to the door, drill through where the screw are and cut a piece of dowel so you can fix from both sides in to the dowel. you may need to predrill the dowel so it wont split. you could add a bit of glue to the dowel to fix it to the door.

My car needs a new catalytic converter. When the garage fit it can I keep the old one as it's worth taking down the scrappy?

depending how thick the frame is use dry wall (plasrerboard) screws they have a better thread for screwing through metal. if the frame is to thick to screw straight through drill a 2.5mm pilot hole first

Trend are well made and have a huge range. if you want a straight cutter get a replacement blade one they cut well and if you need a very sharp bit just change the blade its quicker than sending it away to be sharpened

go to ebay shop "kitchen surplus"" jigs there are under 60 quid and are fine for trade use. as for the joint being out of square cut the female side square then make any adjustment on the male side use a unit shelf as a square

you must cut the joint starting at the front edge and have the router bit turning into the worktop or it will chip out

the only time the range will get close to 43amps is if you turn every oven and ring on at the same time to blow the 100amp fuse you'd need everything in your house running at maximum range, power shower, all lights etc. i install Rangemaster induction hob range cookers regularly u'd need a 50...

i agree with big all lose the level! follow the floor, play with the miters till they fit. if the wall bows in in the middle screw the hell out of it caulk the top edge then paint if the wall bows out screw each end ( school of stating the obvious)

laminated doors are entry level cheap and not very hard wearing vinal wrap and the next level up 4 or 5 piece vinal wrap are better (made like a solid timber door each piece is finished individually then assembled) soild veneer the door is made up of timber pieces 20mm wide glued...

if your edging the board with preglued edging strip buy it from SMC (www.edging.co.uk) best on the market and they colour match all egger boards

i find egger board is the best and if your using it alot invest in a good quality router bit. trend sell a replacement blade bit which is 50mm long and the blades are a lot cheaper to use in the long run. also try using an electric plane to trim the edges

bad earth in the pump?

PVA easy and simple