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bare in mind, thermostat's and TRV's in the same room will conflict with each other. if the TRV is up to temp, it'll cut flow to the radiator, even though the thermostat might not be satisfied. e.g. boiler firing for CH but room ain't getting warmer due to TRV.

"volts free" isn't Volts Free.... simple as, don't read into the name. at a very basic level, in a "volts free" thermostat, the "volts free" contacts behave like a light switch, it either allows flow of electricity or blocks it, the electricity in this case comes from the boiler, normally...

"volts free" normally means its low voltage DC from the boilers pcb (12v) just means it's not mains voltage

any taps dripping? (inside or out) toilet fill and header tank ball cocks shutting off completely? failing that, maybe a minor leak somewhere? (internal or underground) start with the easiest to track down, turn off your internal stop cock, still spinning? possibly a leak on the pipe...

the actuator head contains the springs and motor to keep it in the mid position, so what's probably happened is you've taken the resistance off the valve and the pump's pushed the valve one way or the other (in this case CH only). you'll want to re-instate the head for proper operation...

unless its a new boiler, simplest thing to do is actually buy a combi. A Combi will have everything built in to serve this function, plus the plate heat exchanger will be sized accordingly. flow sensor (tap open), aqua sensor (water in the H/E), Temp sensor + setting (limit boiler...

in the first picture, under the pump there appears to be a 3 way zone without the actuator attached (the "t" junction with a spindle sticking out) hot water will never get hot if the valve isn't in the mid or HW position.

would have thought there was a timer somewhere, even my back boiler had a timer / programmer elsewhere to control it. incidentally, the landing where the thermostat is (or at bottom of stairs), is there a radiator ? if there is make sure it's not got a TRV on it (the valve with numbers...

plus you'd either have to get a gravity hot water cylinder (28mm min coil) or go fully pumped.

maybe a silly question, but did you put the replacement pump on the same way round?

Chris, you can get thermostatic ones for chrome radiators if you wish, p.s. have you got a thermostatic one in the same room as your room thermostat? you shouldn't.

the running water sound in the radiators, i can only imagine would be air sloshing about in them. if you always get some air out then it can only come from 3 things off the top of my head 1) air being pulled in by pump start-up or overrun (only with open vent system) 2) a leak (water...

i'd say Armo74 was on the right track. based on what your saying, it sounds more like the microswitch is faulty in the CH zone valve. Turn thermostat up to max and try the lever on the zone valve and see if the boiler fires, if it doesn't then the switch is at fault, if it does then it's not...

Hi g3zz4 I had a baxi Bermudabback boiler, The vent for the fire and boiler for mine was about a foot off the floor. It draws in quite a draft but should help protect you from carbon monoxide poisoningwwhich is the point of the vent. The chimney is the high vent so will draw through

there should be two tanks in the loft on your open vented system. one is the cold water cistern for the hot water, the other is the feed and expansion tank for your radiators and boiler. in the airing cupboard there might be a stop tap on the rising main that feeds the tanks, they're...

before you take the cover off, make sure you turn everything off / remove the fuse as you'll more than likely be exposing mains voltage. the honeywell zone valve i had, you had to remove the cover then there where two screws on the bottom plate to remove it from the valve. best thing you...

you've either got a leak or a busted expansion vessel. refill to your 1 / 1.5 bar, leave the heating & hot water off (give it an hour), if it steadily declines while cold then you've got a leak somewhere, fix this first! if it stays put, get the heating on , keep an eye on the pressure...

is the garage attached to the house then? going on what you've said, yes a stop cock as it enters the garage with a drain cock after it to remove your airlock check valve is to prevent syphoning in cases where there is a fault with the supply (i.e. complete pressure loss), most taps will...

Could do with some more details on your heating layout. for now have a look on the pipework near the hot water cylinder, there should be a metal (or plastic) box with a wire coming off on a brass connector, this is a zone valve. there are a few types of heating layout, normally it's one...

afaik plastic is more frost resistant (it's flexible and less conductive of heat / cold) it depends on how you've got it plumbed but you should be able to drain down, maybe even as simple as a second tap near to where the pipe exits the ground?? the run to the garage, if trenched deep...