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Not quite - I'd say more like 3 and a bit... :lol:

Wow - its a very similar layout to my own bathroom. I planned on putting it somewhere in Zone 5 based on this pic. Thanks for this: very handy diagram.

OK - not sure what you mean by 'vertiplacingcally' but it on the opposite wall to where the bath is (about 5ft away) and well away from any splashes should be fine? Ofcourse, if the manufacturer states? I'll get the Sparky to drop the cables through cavity into the loft.

I probably will end up having to as he's an old school plumber who's hell bent on using copper. Now that its confirmed I can use Tracpipe, I'll call in a professional who's used this stuff.

Without going into complex rules/regs, I get the vibe (having discussed it with many sparkys) that a on/off switch/button (not a pull cord) for a extractor fan is not allowed/ideal in a bathroom. So here is my dilemma: The Mrs doesn't want it connected to the light switch - you pop in to...

Thanks very much for the info - sincerely appreciated. Now need to find a Tracpipe accessory which combines a valve and a compression fitting to mate it with a copper pipe.

Aaaa ok - this makes sense. So BOTH compression fitting and valve need to be accessible. BUT: I have a question: Logically, this means the gas valve would have to be located in an adjacent cupboard if the cooker is going in? Is this what everybody does? Planning it in my head, I'd say the...

Do you mean the fitting between gas line (copper) and Tracpipe needs to be accessible? I assume this will be some kind of coupler? Or: Do you mean there needs to be one of those lever type valve somewhere on this line which is accessible? If its this, then it'd have to go on the Tracpipe...

Hi folks, My Plumber capped off a gas line (copper) in prep for a new gas hob (standard Bosch 4 burner). Plans have changed and the hob is now moving (approx 1 meter). Without a picture, its difficult to explain just how impossible it is now to get a supply into the hob (think walls and all...

The good folks here have given me great replies and for that, I do thank them. These jobs around the home cost and I find answers here have saved me a lot of cash and troubles over the past few years. My last post was more of a 'I was just saying....'

This rant isn't aimed at any particular poster but as a long time lurker on these forums, I've noticed posts go off on a tangent because some still feel they have a monopoly on knowledge due to a City n Guilds qualification they may have. Forums are a means of sharing knowledge and they have...

Aaa this makes sense: so am I correct in assuming that this 45A socket isn't *REALLY* a local isolation or saftey fuse: its just there to allow max 45A to pass through. The safety bit takes place at the MCB which is where the sparky will do his thing..?

I can't see why a sparky would walk away: all I've done so far is channeled a cable from MCU to Cooker and stripped cable for insertion into socket + rear of cooker. Everything is looose fitted for when the sparky arrives. The MCU is new and hasn't been fitted yet: it will replace an old one...

I've managed to get the 10mm cable into the cooker and your right, it was tricky. But that's done. Just to clarify, the cooker is connected to the rear of a 45A switch with the usual large red on/off switch labelled 'cooker'. The 3pin UK plug next to the cooker switch isn't currently being...

Hi there, This is my first ever post so will appreciate comments from all the good folks here. I have a Electric Oven (Bosch rated at around 6kW). The hob is gas. Starting at the MCB and leaving a 30cm overhang (ready for when the sparky arrives), a 9meter length of 10mm electric cable...