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Almost any decent gas safe engineer who works on cookers should be able to rectify this fairly easily and imo it`s probably worth doing as most 17 year old cookers will be a damn sight better than some of the sh*te being sold nowadays.

Get the engineer who serviced it back,unless your wife twisted the grey knob the pilot shouldn`t go out,especially 1 week after a service.

You would have to get a Gas Safe Engineer in to disconnect the fire and seal the gas supply pipe at a safe distance from the fireplace. As to fitting a solid fuel fire,best bet would be to go to a fireplace centre and ask for advice. At the very least the chimney would have to be smoke...

Almost all gas fires with a coal effect have a set pattern to set the coals in and this should be followed. However a lot of these fires will produce some soot (manufacturers say this enhances the realism of the fire)as well and usually the customer is informed to use the fire on full for the...

Who disconnected your flue and what was the reported fault with the chimney. Depending on what`s wrong with it,it may be worth having it repaired. Far better to have a normal flued fire than a flueless one.

I would recommend you get someone in who really knows what they are doing,either a Gas safe engineer with experience of working on cookers or a sparky with domestic appliance experience. You obviously have limited competency in this area and could quite easily make things worse and...

Before you start buying anything or taking your fireplace apart,get a gas safe engineer in to check the chimney is still sound and to check over the fire and make sure everything is suitable. He/she will also be able to give you any and all adice on the whole job. Remember you will need a gas...

Most gas safe engineers who are qualified to work on cookers should be able to fault find on them,ask when on the phone to them whether they can. I doubt many electricians have much experience dismantling gas cookers and knowing what parts to keep away from. You could try the manufacturer,they...

The oven doesn`t work because the power is routed through it to open the solenoid which in turn allows gas to the oven,usually.Have you tried lighting it with a match? Lack of dashes at the clock usually signifies no power. Either way you`ll probably need a gas safe engineer to trace for a...

The oven thermostat is faulty,it`ll need a new one,fitted by a Gas Safe registered engineer.

The definite click you hear is the thermo=electric valve shutting off the gas,but we knew that was happening.It could be a loose connection from the t/couple to the T/electric valve. Is the flame continually touching the t/couple tip?even when the burner cuts off?

If it`s a gas grill,it is obviously very dangerous.So get a gas safe engineer in. If it`s electric,I`ve no idea.

1st thing I`d check would be whether it`s the correct gas you`re using for the appliance. Then I`d get the pressure checked. Unlikely to be the thermocouple as they usually work or don`t. Also make sure the bottom of the wok is not too near the burner ie: try it with a large flat bottomed...

Definitely an engineer required,it could be a loose connection,but equally it could be almost anything else.

Following in from my post about "yellow wavy flames"after looking at you pics it would seem there may be something else wrong there.Therefore once again I say"get a Gas Safe engineer to check it all out".

It sounds like the burner or air inlet to the burner may be partially choked,this will cause incomplete combustion,yellow wavy flames and will lead to a sooty build up on the rectification probe.You`ll need a gas Gas Safe registered engineer with the relevant qualifications to take it apart.

As `Ihatemyjob`said it could be the burner not burning correctly where the F.S.D. crosses the burner but much more likely to be the actual F.S.D.(sensor). Either way you need a gas safe engineer with the relevant cooker qualification to fix it. The gas safe website will give you contact...

It sounds like the micro=switch in a zone valve has stuck in the on position,had this a few months ago.Needed to change the valve head,but it may need a complete valve change,If this is the fault. You`re probably best to get a heating engineer to check it.

The grill burner may be cracked allowing the gas to ignite inside instead of burning on the surface. You definitely need a gas safe engineer to look at this,best not to use it untill it`s been checked/fixed.

If you have power going to the motor on the valve there should be no resistance when you manually move the lever.If there is resistance it usually means either the motor is knackered or it isn`t getting power.