Search results

Presumably I then use my existing programmer to control JUST the hotwater system?

I am looking to replace our current 'heating' controller, (the control box that controls what times the heating / hot water switches on / off at). My system setup at the moment has 2 motorised valves (one for HW, one for heating), and the stats on teh HW tank, and the room stat downstairs...

In our old bathroom the powershower was fitted at the non-tapend of the bath, which was fine, until one morning when I was rinsing off the suds and stepped back a bit too far. The old plastic of the 'backrest' section of the bath didn't like having the weight of my foot on it and promptly split...

I had considered bending springs, but my worry with those was that if I needed to bend near the middle of a pipe they might get stuck. I've heard you can twist the spring to loosen it back out, but that presumably only works if you have access to the spring, which you won't if it's in the middle...

Thanks for all the replies and discussion :) I think I'll go for the Hilmor GLM. Out of interest, on some sites I see a "Hilmor GLM Pipe Bender" which is suitable for 15mm & 22mm pipe, and on other sites I see a "Hilmor 15/22mm Pipe Bender", and on sites where there are both listed it...

Heh heh, that was my thinking, (about the importance, not the missus! :p), must admit I was surprised to see it had be just wired to a standard 13A plug and socket, (not checked the actual fuse value in the plug as yet). As I am making it safer, and technically this is taking place outside...

Cheers. I was going to comment that the socket it's plugged into is only a single socket, but I notice teh Signle version of what you posted is actually 7p MORE than the double :roll: Might as well convert it to a double then and the other half will then have somewhere to plug in the hoover :)

In my bathroom I have one of those 'all-in-one' power showers with the pump built into the shower unit. the wall it is mounted on backs onto the airing cupboard, and the pwore cable for the shower comes through that wall, and then down to where it is plugged into a standard 'looking' mains...

Perhaps that is part of the problem then, rather than cut a neat hole through the spray-foam insulation on the cylinder to fit the stat into a great swathe of it has been sliced off, (imagine a blade being run down the cylinder at a tangent), so there is no insulation next to / near to the stat...

So it sounds like everything is in the right place and the thermostat is correct. No :( Our old power shower used to run out of water quite quickly, (2 or 3 showers, depending how long people took). The new bath is quoted at 210L capacity. The HWC is 450x900 which works out at 117L...

Cheers for the reply. The problem with the wall is that it is a honeycomb/egg-box type wall, with a sheet of plasterboard on both sides, so would not have really been able to fit battens into it. I guess if I HAVE to then I could cut in from the room on the otherside, cut out some of the...

Just a quick one, (hopefully). I'm just wondering if there is a better sort of HWC(ylinder) thermostat than the one I currently have. The current one seems slow to react, and as such the HWC is often almost completely empty of water that is of a reasonable temperature before the thermostat...

Please excuse me if this is an obvious question / answer but I have not been living in the house for long, and my previous house had brick wall everywhere. My main bathroom has recently been refitted with ceramic tiles on plasterboard base. I now need to attach my towel rail to the wall, but...

We have one of these made by Bemis: http://www.bathroom-trends.co.uk/acatalog/Bemis_Multi_Family_Toilet_Seat.html I'm sure we got them from B&Q but I don't see them on their website now. Anyway, we are very happy with them, makes life a lot simpler and does seem to make the kids feel that...

Cheers to all. and yeah, the reason for the TRV is because although I want to dry my towels in the summer I don't want to be boiling the bathroom! So the general opinion is; It might / could work the way it is currently setup, but the BEST way of doing it would be to run in a feed from...

The boiler is an oldish (was in the house when we moved in 4 years ago, no idea how long it has been here), British Gas branded "Ideal RD2 450". It is downstairs in the kitchen, and the towel radiator and pump etc are upstairs. There would be probably 7.5m of 22mm pipe (including travelling...

Cr@p that's what I was fearing :( So now what would have been a 20 minute job for the plumber in the first place as he would have had direct access from the void under the bath into the airing cupboard, is now going to take me AGES as I am going to have to take up the flooring on the landing...

So the above will NOT work? If not I am going to have to tear up my landing, so I just want to be sure first... This is my aircupboard pipework: There is almost no room between the valves and the pump... I guess I might be able to squeeze in a T on the horizontal section after the...

Hi all, I just wanted to make sure that the following plumbing plan will work for a bathroom towel radiator that needs to be on whenever the boiler is running, irrelevant of whether it is doing Hot Water or Central Heating. My system is indirect heating vented system with pumped primary...