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Hey. I've no idea why it's bump or what might be under it. I just figured it was plaster all the way back until brick. The internal walls are lathe and plaster, I think. I've used a belt sander before but I figured that with a finer grit paper it might be controllable. I might be better off...

Another of my dumb questions: I want to sand smooth some uneven/bumpy plaster prior to painting it. I have a belt sander and a back-and-forth finishing sander; the speed of the belt sander is fixed and I'm concerned it might be too aggressive but I think the finishing sander is maybe a bit weak...

In what way are they very good? Are they more energy efficient? Cheaper to install and/or maintain? I think they have two bathrooms but I don't know what facilities are in each. I don't know the specifics of the hot water system either.

My whole life I've lived in places in which the water was heated on demand so there was never such an issue as running out of hot water. I was aware of such systems that heated a lot of water at once and could run out of that hot water but I thought they were just antiquated systems that had not...

I'm pretty sure you know how. The live from a plug would go to the live for the switch. The switched live from the switch would go to the lamp. The same for neutral. The lamp is made of glass so no earth is needed. The sensor would sit next to the lamp.

I already have one but it's at home and I don't want to have two. Besides, I feel validated when an inanimate object tries and fails to defeat me. I've ordered 50 4 mm steel balls for just 99p including delivery!

I would like to use a PIR light switch to switch on and off a lamp that plugs into a socket. There are few options for PIR socket adaptors and they're not reasonably priced so I want to use this instead. Is there some kind of plastic backing plate that this can be screwed into with appropriate...

I guess they wanted to demonstrate use of the adapter without sourcing a non-SDS bit.

That seems pretty wasteful considering that the same thing might happen again with the next one anyway judging by comments I find around the internet. All I need is one ball bearing. And this screw driver is part of a set that I'd like to keep whole.

I've lost the small ball bearing which is part of the mechanism that retains the bit inserted into my ratcheting screw driver. Having searched around the Internet I've concluded that this is a common mode of failure. Will they likely all be the same size? I can get ball bearings on eBay but...

When I was younger I did this with a circle of carpet that I cut from behind the sofa! It was a shag pile so it was never detected :D It must have been strange to the builders that refurbished the house a few years ago when the pulled up the carpet and found a small circle of it was glued to the...

Thanks but my wrench is of a different design so that video doesn't help.

I have a ratcheting wrench as pictured here but never figured out how to use it and can't find instructions online for this particular design. Draper did not supply any with the tool when I got it. There seem to be a few different designs of adjustable ratcheting wrench available.

The knob which turns the lock of the bathroom door is disconnected. Could someone advise whether I can easily fix this? I don't know what search terms to use to find relevant information via Google. Inside Middle Outside

I also have an angle grinder. I'll try that but if it turns out too cumbersome for me (I mean, if I'm too clumsy with it), I can try the hacksaw. Thanks also for the tip re: cleaning the thread with by putting nuts on first. :)

Can I use bolt croppers to shorten machine screws or would that destroy the end of the thread, preventing them from being screwed in?

A few drops of oil seemed to fix the issue. I had to apply it again, a couple of hours later (squeak returned). It's a little tricky to apply (have to let it drip into place - can't apply directly) but the squeaking has stopped and no more breaking belts (or tears!)

The wheel rolls freely for a couple of seconds after I stop spinning it, but without an new one to compare it to, I can't say whether friction has increased or not. Even if I bought a new 'carrier SA' (part 4), I wouldn't be sure that I'd get it back together. I'll oil it and buy some higher...

I was wondering whether it is worth paying a premium for sanding belts from manufacturers such as Bosch or Festool - have you experimented? Do more expensive belts last longer? Can anyone recommend a manufacturer with the optimal compromise between quality and cost?

The front wheel on my relatively new belt sander (Black & Decker KA88) has started to squeak and my sanding belts keep breaking down the seam (where they are glued together), despite being fitted in the correct orientation. Are these two related? The belts were cheap and seem to be produced by...