Search results

Nonsense.

I've heard of that before, but aren't you then relying solely on the vapour barrier to prevent condensation build up? Any penetration of the insulation could potentially cause problems?

I have a problem there - the outside of the upstand is not flush with the joists below as we've had to triple/quad up the joists (the building inspector visited yesterday and threw that one into the mix after previously saying doubled up joists would be fine!!) so any attempt at an abutment vent...

Thanks for your help by the way.

Oh, so you mean 3 abutment vents (one either side of the roof lantern and one against the adjoining wall?) How do the abutment vents work with the upstand?

This pretty much shows what I was thinking, but I don't fancy notching the joists - I'd rather have gaps in the firrings.

The problem is air flow. You don't get proper ventillation with just one side of the rooflight abutments vented.

No it's a cold deck flat roof with bitumen felt. It needs to tie in with the adjacent garage roof on one corner so having a warm deck would mean a drop in level which wouldn't look right. I did consider a warm deck right the way through including replacing the garage roof but a) budget was tight...

I haven't yet. I planned to have soffit vents on all three sides to allow ventillation to the eaves overhang dead spots (plus now the abutment vent). Is that not necessary?

Thanks! That is what I was looking for, I just didn't know it existed! Cheers :-) It solves most of the problems, but I still need some sort of cross ventillation between the joists around the roof lantern to allow air flow through.

I'm in the process of building a 5m x 4m extenstion with cold deck flat roof and 3m x 2m roof lantern. It's occured to me today that many of the roof timbers between the roof lantern and the adjoining wall of the house will not be ventillated and the other timbers will only be ventillated from...

Hi, I bought a house to renovate and noticed that the toilet has been moved from the outside wall to an internal wall. I pulled up the bathroom floor to find that the toilet waste had been re-routed through 2 joists! 125mm has been removed from the 150mm joists, leaving just an inch!!! The...

Went for the viewing. No cracks inside as far as I can see but it's all wallpapered so not sure if you would see the cracks on a papered wall anyway. There was no damp on that wall either. One point to note is that they've knocked out/chiselled out half of the brickwork from around the fireplace...

Oh, another thing that makes me feel it's something more than thermal cracking, there's lots of houses made with the same brick on that road, and although there's been bricks replaced etc I can't see any other buildings with continuous vertical/stepped cracks like this.

Absolutely Pre 1900 I believe. Next door but one said their house was built 1887 and he said ours was built 5-10 years later. The cracks are on both sides, but pointing down and AWAY from the point loaded corner. Both sides have cracked bricks that have dropped a few mm. Tomorrow I will be...

Thanks. Going to have a look tomorrow. I've decided - if there's internal cracks that match the outside then I'm going to leave it. If there aren't, then I'm going to have a structural survey done.

One thing that confuses me is that there doesn't appear to be much cracking near the foundations/DPC but there's some movement of bricks further up, like the photos shown below, the bricks on the left of the crack have dropped by 3 or 4 mm. Looks like I'll need a proper structural survey to come...

Is it definitely subsidence then? I'm going to ring the agent and cancel if it's not something that can be easily remedied, and judging by the extent of the cracks I'm guessing it's going to be expensive? Shelling out for the work (underpinning?) can be negotiated with the vendor but my main...

It did cross my mind (hence the last photo). Is there any way of knowing without actually inspecting said drain to see if it's defective?

AREA 6 AREA 7 AREA 8