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First an apology; I know this must have been asked a million times before; I did a search but couldn't find an answer. I have a Worcster 35CDi II combi and am doing some changes to the heating - a couple of replacement radiators and some other changes. My question is; can I switch the CH...

I would suggest getting the company back out and make them to check what the fitters did between the frames and the walls. If you have plastic "cloaks" or flashing strips covering the gap between the frames and the walls get them to lift one where the drafts/noise is bad. If they've cut...

As promised an update on this. Following my complaints different pair of fitters from the same company have been back out over the last couple of days and, with me standing over them, have done a very thorough and professional job of sorting my problems out. What they found shocked even...

What I drilled into behind the wood wasn't a timber lintel. Seemed more like plaster or mortar. Maybe I'll try a longer drill...

I did a quick test drilling up through the horizontal wood at the top, but no sign of any lintel, which has me a little worried!

My house is a 1927 brick and block construction with cavity. The photos show an upstairs window in one of the bedrooms. I'm thinking of removing the wooden surround (which as far as I know is original) for the following reasons: It's drafty around the edges, it's a pain to maintain. I also...

This s a 1927 property, brick & block with cavity. As far as I know the wooden reveals are original. I'm thinking of taking them off because they're drafty and a pain to maintain. I've posted these pics to try and get a view as to what will be behind them.<br><br>I guess my main concern is...

Just a quick progress update on this. I did one of he windows myself - took the trims off, foam filled the gaps, stuck the trims back on with gripfill and re-sealed. It made a *huge* difference. The frames and window panes now stay warm, no condensation and the room is noticeably warmer...

It's about 10 yrs old; I've already sent them a mail asking their view. Will update this thread with their response.

That's an interesting idea and certainly worth further consideration.

Wish I had that option; the wall I would have to run the ducting along doesn't have any units on it and in all certainty never will, as the kitchen is quite old and finding some to match would be nigh on impossible,

Yes, but would require a 2m run which I don't think is going to look too good. Thanks for your comments about getting someone to do the fibregalss work - I have e-mailed the installation company to see what they suggest, though I still have great reticence about making a hole in a perfectly...

I've got a similar problem to this and have done a lot of research around the subject and there's another angle that I thought I would point out. Condensation is caused by moisture crossing a thermal barrier. In a house it's normally warm, moisture laden air hitting a cold surface and in the...

Our kitchen is in a flat roof extension with a tuffdeck (fibre glass) roof. I'm looking to fit an over-cooker extractor hood and have two options for venting: 1) Take a 2m internal duct to the nearest external wall. 2) Vent straight up through the ceiling, penetrating the tuffdeck...

Double glazing certainly wont solve a humidity problem. Drying washing inside the house is almost certainly a major factor here. One possible solution is a dehumidifier. We bought one this winter and I'm staggered by the amount of water it extracts form the air. Hope I'm not similalry...