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Sounds reasonable.

I hear the industrial look is in this season.

They weren't at risk, he just couldn't be bothered to do the derating calculations :-) I hope the client plans to keep the Cu polished.

The world has yet to catch up. A couple of years ago I ran some HDMI cables from the media area to my projector and the scant faceplates available were amazingly poorly thought out. In the end I ran standard HDMI cables, got some keystone faceplates with blanking plates and some right-angled...

Each luminary, which is conveniently located near where the detector goes has a nearby JB, which provides for power. It's a little less hassle running a single interlink cable than 3C&E and also avoids running two 3C&E cables in to each detector (it's a little cosy in there). It's also a real...

Inverter?

Is it any more a sin to have alarms powered from different sources with an interlink than it is to have two PCs on different circuits interlinked with an Ethernet cable or two mains powered telephones interlinked with telephone wire?

I have a number of smoke alarms to fit. It seem to be that most people are wiring them in 3C&E. Fortuitously it seems I have a convenient source of power near each one, so one really only needs to run a cable for the interconnect. Just wonder what cable people prefer to use in this case?

Assuming a 2.2KW element and 10p per KWh and a 14 day holiday, I make that about £73.92. This assumes the element is on constantly, which of course it will turn off once the oven reaches temperature. I'm not sure what the duty cycle would likely be, so haven't accounted for it. I was one in...

That's a big tank.

I hope that the consumer unit is appropriately IP rated? Do you not have trouble with the local scallys turning your circuits off for a laugh?

Yes, as long as it's not in a built up area during the hours of darkness.

The light does occasionally work, so it's a safe bet that the red+black is working fine. So take the three (red, blue & yellow wires at one end and place them in a single terminal on the switch. At the other end, use the multimeter to test for continuity between each of the three cables in pairs.

I can't see how that PIR works without three wires + CPC (earth). Uh no, please tell me the previous installer didn't use the CPC as a live conductor?! You may be best (with the power off and confirmed as being off) take the tape off the choc block and see how it's wired up.

There are many, many ways to wire lights. When it comes to switches and PIRs, there are many more still. One may choose to wire both lights to the PIR or the PIR to one light and then that light to the other. The switch might be wired as an override either to force the light off or force it...

If it's stuck in the on position then it's ****ed, so you need to replace it either way. Start by doing that.

This sounds like a very dangerous thing to do. Asphyxiation issues aside, the air pressure from the walls and ceiling will cause the room to implode. Your guess is as good as mine. A lot of people say so, I haven't seen an authority on it yet. That depends on the manufactuer's...

Well, that sounds like a bad connection, check the terminals, as it could just be that you've made a dud connection when changing the switch over. I would buy a multimeter, then you can test out the switches and cables and be sure that they are all doing what you think they should be doing...

I haven't tried using nail scissors as wire cutters but I have used wire cutters as nail scissors and found them to be highly effective. Makes me wonder if the reverse is true. I have stripped wire with my teeth and that sort of works. It's not as good as a decent pair of strippers and I...

I think it stands for "Chinese Export"