Search results

Depending on where you are the council grants department have a spec, where I am it was/is 3 doubles and one single in a kitchen two sockets in all other rooms they will not provide 2 way lighting in bedrooms, wall lights or outside lighting

You have too because they are rarely accurate and someone who didnt know better would look at the integral "level" and assume you put it up squint!

:lol: :lol: oh dear :lol: :lol:

Thats not true, your wrong.

I have to agree alot with what steve said there, people were cautious of posting because of abrasive posts, where as before we would apply different experiences and methods to a problem rather than slate someone who has another method / solution.

I dont think youll have much option, I reckon sheets will start to come away :(

MAke a dead man out of battens. Dont nail the board unless you like 50p bits of plaster popping off!!

I miss the "old crew" from when I joined, Richard C, Roughcaster, Roy C, trowelmonkey, and others which arn't in the forefront of my memory. Come back and contribute lads. As for Peaps and his constant banging on about lime, it's not a viable option for a DIYer and not a very cost effective...

Simple answer, fella had a new roll of tape he wanted to try out.

You need to dig a little deeper, is this a weyroc floor floating on insulation or is it joisted? What size are the joists, how often are they supported? 5mm ply isn't enough, min over board size is 12,mm

Does that mean we can have Richard C back now?

You cant do two coats of multi in separate sessions. Or are you saying you only got the bonding on. Either way it'll need PVA'ing and two coats of multi finish

9.5 will sag between joists on a ceiling.

Since reading this thread and realising brit plasterers are all rubbish I will be strictly employing afghan plasterers in a bid to get a superior job. To the OP, im glad the brit plasterers came and sorted it, perhaps if they were european they'd have got it right first time?

Even if you for a 20A MCB instead of your 32A it will still be able to draw more than 16A so wont help you there, you need to reduce your energy consumption, you could get some emergency lights fitted so your not in the dark when it trips.

They wont do anything

PVA over the bonding before the next coat is fine, put some on and let it dry then more and put the bonding in when tacky. easy fill is fine to go over it too. Looking at where you chimney was it looks as it you need to rebuild the innner leaf of the wall with brick and tie it to the outer...

Or you can counter batten with 2x1 roofing batten, this gives you the opportunity to screw the battens tight to the joists above and shim them so the ceiling is as true as you'd like it to be!

My thinking is that a cordless drill and or impact driver and a chop saw would be ample. Of course you could get a framing nailer instead but if a newbie is building then if it's screwed together then it can be disassembled part way if theres an error. With some careful ebaying you should get...

Haha, not so well when they are in situ! You can get a small circular saw, I had a Skil one once, it lasted years and years but finally gave up the ghost when I foolishly used it to cut up 11 old 1920's doors into small fire wood for the wood burner :( a multi tool will cut them in situ...