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I would think if you had your chimney capped youve lost a lot of air movement in the property, It would be best to get a cap that allows a lot of ventilation. Have you got any gas fires too? You may be able to treat the walls outside with water seal although Im not sure of how affective this is.

With the source of water removed the wall should dry out naturally over time. A dehumidifier may speed things up.

Ive seen it rubbed back with a gang nail plate trowel myself, and hand applied by trowel, never done it myself though, I was unsure if it could be troweled up wet but now I know, thanks :D

Your diagnosis is correct, the problem now is that you have lets say 2" thick walls holding a lot of moisture which cant dry out properly, bearing in mind that a wet wall will take one month per inch of thickness to dry out. The ideal thing is to hack off and let the property dry out naturally...

Personally I wouldn't bother, I would however fit some ply or OSB to the walls before plaster boarding more so if cabinets are being hung there.

You can top coat k-rend over a S&C scratch. It can be troweled up too I think but someone will confirm.

If the lathe and plaster has started failing I would remove it, the laths can be taken off of the studs etc and plasterboard put over top and skimmed. If the wall framework is wobbly this too can be rectified at this point. Definitely worth doing before the ensuite due to the mess involved in...

It can be skimmed but needs priming with a certain primer first, if your gonna skim it though why choose it over standard plaster board?

I wouldn't be concerned in a domestic setting. Pulled out plenty of plasterboard bathrooms and the most damage is near the bath junction. Aquapanel should give you no problem in a domestic setting. Manufacturers instruction dont mention tanking it, and its sold to be installed "bare" I have...

This is what I used to do as a sparky and results can be as good as you like depending on how long you spend on the second stage. Stage one, dampen down the chase, take caution and turn the electricity off. if the wall is sucking the water in it's often better to pva within the chase to stop...

No problem OP. Thanks RC, miss being here but seem really busy and tired these days :(

Theres two ways around the plasterboard application, you can dab it as you said, with thick dabs or you can batten and board it too. If its a kitchen I would batten and board myself with 2x1 batten and fix 12 or 18mm ply or OSB over the top before plasterboard to support cabinets. :) ps. You...

and neither is PVA, big no no in a bathroom

You may as well go with the bitumen route, if it fails, you can afford to do it again. In my opinion the only way to keep it dry would be to do it from the other side of the wall, the part thats buried. I dont see the bitumen idea as bad, I see the complete lining of it bad if they think that...

Well there are millions of homes all over the uk with pva and gypsum over lime plaster, worth bearing that in mind, the first colourful paints in the 1950's were made with PVA. This is what I used to do as a sparky and results can be as good as you like depending on how long you spend on the...

the leveling shouldn't affect the painting at all.

If you start removing more of that then it more than likely will come down. You need to ask yourself if a 2m2 section came down of its own accord how well is the rest of it stuck up there?

I have had to use bonding on dabbed walls that were far from tidy. If you have 3mm gaps it may be easier to apply a tight coat of bonding, you can mix it with multifinish too if it needs to be quite thin.

turn the slabs over once your foot is better

1/4" is a bit much for multi finish, you need to wet the wall, or pva it to control suction though.