Search results

Well...kind of. Connecting it, yes, but it'll need programming. The veritas defaults to zones 5,6& 7 being omitted in a part set, so if you need it active when part set, then it'll need changing. Only mentioned it as you said you've only got 4 zones in use, logic being 5 is the next one. you...

Needs to be programmed via an engineer. It's under miscellaneous options.

If I was a gambling man, which I'm not (that is until the other half goes away :lol: ) then i'd say that the PIR's don't have a relay in them. Instead, they have something else in them which I can never remember what it's called but where it makes the panel think its gone open circuit. OP...

The cameras are PoE powered, but you need to have either a PoE switch/router or whatever. Most home routers aren't. On my cameras at home, there's an alarm output, and when used with motion detection, can be used to send an alert via e-mail when motion is detected. I don't usually have...

I think the OP has wired the system the same as it is in the Texecom book, but his installation uses different colours for the connections than the manual.

I'd grill your neighbour more before checking wiring first. I've heard many alarm activations that sound like next doors, but in actual fact it's the house opposite or down the road. That is, unless he was stood outside looking at the box when it was sounding. If there isn't anything in the...

Your wanting to play with Texe Premier stuff but can't work out yourself what kit you need. Oh dear.... Premier's aren't easy and take some time to get your head round. I've found plenty of information on Texecom's website How do we know, never seen your home before, one person's opinion...

I bought a house a bit ago, think it might have been an Accord XPC installed...... 3PIR's, (covering the two back rooms and the hall) all set as entry, dummy box on the outside, elmdene sounder inside, and surface tacked cable everywhere. Lets just say I had extreme pleasure ripping it out.

Different people=different opinions. My opinion= Yes! :D Just one to remember, the alarm will only be as good as the installation. crap installation means a crap alarm. Are the co NSI or SSAIB?

No worries, catches a lot of people out. It does appear you can turn it off, but the time is fixed though.

Power up on mains only. Don't know why you've done a factory reset, faulty batteries can send all sorts of problems to the panel. And get a new battery. When you are triggering the bell, and you say it isn't working, are you triggering an entry/exit zone? There is a fixed 30 second dual...

The beep you are hearing is from the internal sounder/speaker I understand that it won't activate the external sounder when unset, but are you saying that the internal alarm doesn't activate when there is a tamper?

Hi all, Can anyone tell me why the tamper alarm isn't sounding when a tamper is created on the above panel. It just beeps once and shows alerts. I've attached a video to demonstrate. Cheers

Anyone else think that when the bit when the door moves is really really creepy

In all fairness, EightyTwo's explanation is from a DIY point of view and the OP doesn't seem to fully understand how a conventional tamper circuit is wired, therefore it will provide minimal benefit. However, surely it would be even easier if there was nothing in the terminals, as the cable...

Hahahaha :D :D :D :D :D :D

I know a bit about Castle, but not a lot, so here goes... Which type of castle panel is it? If you could post a picture of the keypad and endstation, that would be great. How big is the shop? If it's got a euro mini say, then that's easy enough to programme, however if it's something like...

It always amazes me why people put the remote keypad next to the end station. Fair enough, if they're both under the stairs, but a remote keypad...the clues in the name!

It shouldn't set if any zones are open. Simple. I'd check the programming on the enabled zones. I assume this is programme 1? In some of the menu's, you have to press "Set" or "tick" on the newer keypads to accept the changes, other menu's you don't have to.

What about a relay with a timer, say 5 seconds. Once the timer expires, the contacts close again and both systems can be re-armed. Just a thought.... Or what about turning off the re-arm function. Most panels lock out a zone if it is still in alarm at the end of the bell time anyway...