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Hi JohnD The river has been there forever. The damp started about 3 years ago. Don't know anything about a water pipe.

It's like this all around the room, on the external walls and internal. The building is about 100 years old with a concrete floor. The office next door (same building, same concrete floor etc) just separated by a stud wall, used to have water coming up through the floor, really bad apparently...

Thanks guys.

In many places around our office we have many patches where the paint is coming off the wall just above the skirting, as per the attached picture. The wall is not saturated, the skirtings aren't rotten and it doesn't feel particularly damp anywhere, there is obviously some sort of damp issue...

Block for the sides, cladding/block/studwork (with insulation) for the 2 ends, pitched roof (with a ceiling (loft above).

I've just blocked up either end of our car port, and put a doorway in from our garage. I now have a room with just a door. I'd like to use this as a workshop, not work in there all day but a few hours here and there. I've sorted out the insulation and am now looking at power and lighting, but...

Me and the missus are in the very early discussion stages, it all looks doable, but the boiler thing may have been a big problem. However, after getting your knowledge this has given me confidence that we can get around the problem. So thank you, I can now push on with working out costs etc...

I can contain and support the extended flue internally by boxing it into a cupboard. The neighbour's house is well away from the boundary so no problem there. With those points ticked off, I guess it is all doable?

You can see from the photo above the current configuration for the condense and the flue. I'm guessing we just extend these internally and exit them out of the new external wall.

Thanks for your reply Muggles. When we extend out, the external wall will be 1.0 metre away from the neighbour's boundary.

We're looking to extend out a small amount at the back of our house, shown on the plan below in red. Currently the outlet from the boiler goes straight outside, I'm guessing we can just extend the outlet so it exits in the new external wall? It's an oil boiler if that makes any difference...

I think I'm going off the idea!

I'm guessing it's a pretty straight forward DIY job to swap off our two single taps and replace with the bath shower mixer? Thank you.

After reading the comments above, and, as there is no cracking above the top of the door frame, and the crack seems to start at the bottom of the door frame and end at the top of the door frame indicating a force from around the middle/shoulder height as mentioned above. That's what I'm thinking.

Thanks guys.

It's not our house so I don't know the history. It's at a place where I help out, I wanted to understand how it happened.

The property is about 30 years old, there is an upstairs but is original I believe, not added.

Can anyone explain what may have caused this please? The pictures speak for themselves as to the extent of the damage. The door lining is still fine and the door closes okay. It appears the blocks have got a split through most of them, if the ply wasn't screwed to the wall the blocks could...

Is that a job for Dyno Rod or could a local plumber sort that one do you think?

The top arrow shows the toilet above, the bottom arrow shows the toilet below.