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Is that because it's pre-IP rating (installed 1999), or just not IP rated at all? I'm not clear about when the IP rating was first introduced?

Thanks, I have emailed a pic to diyadmin to post onto here. If it helps, the manufacturer is Canarm Europe and the part no. is F77>8091F. Fitting is also marked: 'Canarm UIFM611 Ceiling Mount Only' But no indication of any IP rating.

I have a ceiling light fitting installed in a shower room during 1999. It's about one foot from the shower cubicle and the ceiling is about 7ft high, so it should be an IP44 rated fitting. I took it down for cleaning and there's no IP rating marked on it. My wife bought it originally and thinks...

Thanks, think I've found it. It sits at the back of the pump at top right hand side, small black screw on top (yes, it's already loose)? Sime manual refers to it as the 'air relief valve'.

In order to drain down, flush and refill a Sime 80E combi system, is it just necessary to open the main drain cock and the bleed valves on the rads, or are there other bleed valves that need to be opened (on the pump, elsewhere on the boiler?).

OK, thanks, will definitely add inhibitor. Any thoughts on the Magnaclean? I've also seen a similar device called Boiler Buddy which is a bit cheaper but doesn't look quite so user- friendly in terms of cleaning the filter.

Can someone please advise what pressure the expansion vessel should be set to on one of these combi's? I've got my footpump ready but can't see any reference in the handbook to the required pressure. Thanks.

That's what I thought. But is there any point in adding inhibitor to a dirty system, or does it have to be flushed first and then inhibitor added? I'm reluctant to powerflush for the reasons given in the original post. Would it be effective to drain down, fit a Magnaclean unit and then add...

I've just had a pressure relief valve changed on a Sime combi system. My engineer did a partial draindown and refill, but when I asked about topping up with inhibitor, he specifically warned against using it on an older system (my boiler is 8 years old but the rads are probably 20 years plus...

I've had another look and tried manually operating the pressure relief valve. It dropped to below 3 bar (as it should), but then repressurised itself back up to 3 bar and is now filling and venting continuously to hold at 3 bar, even with the filling loop valve supposedly shut. So I'm guessing...

I have one of the above combi boilers and recently it has started to run at a higher pressure than before. It used to be about 1.5 bar idle and 2.5 bar running, now it is reading about 2.5 bar idle and 3.5 bar running (maximum on gauge is 4 bar). I've checked the filling loop valve and it...

It's not possible to bury all the water supply cables as they run to individual pots and tubs. I had assumed it was foxes because we get them regularly in the garden and I have seen no sign of rats (although in London they are suppposedly everywhere). The cables are chewed anything up to a foot...

Does anyone know of a way of detering foxes from chewing on plastic cable or pipes? I have an automatic watering system and a water fountain where the supply pipes/power cables have been shredded by what I have to assume are urban foxes. I don't mind them in the garden, but not doing this...

Thanks for the advice Deluks. You say about 4 inches-If I use the resilient bar method, shouldn't the space loss be only about 3 inches (2 inch batten, plus 1 inch plasterboard)? Assuming I understand correctly, with this method I batten straight to the existing wall, rather than build a stud...

The Wylex CU is a 100A/11 way box, model number NS 1104. Main switch is number WS102. Was installed Spring 2000. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the advice but sorry, I don't quite see how option 2) can be more expensive, I reckon the Acousticel will cost about £250 + VAT, the only other costs are 2 layers of plasterboard, adhesive, and mastic. Say £350 all in? Surely building out a new stud wall plus the specialist acoustic...

Crafty-yes, you read it correctly, my mother's board is vintage 1960's cartridge fusebox, my own is a Wylex CU with MCB's, circa 2001. Sorry for any confusion. So I can replace the main switch or individual circuit MCB's with an RCBO on my own CU, but not on my mother's old board?

Sorry, what is RCBO (residual current ? ?). The Wylex CU is an 11 way box with only 8 in use at present. So to have a split load configuration, do I have to replace all the existing MCB's with RCBO's, or does the RCBO just fit in one of the unused slots?

I have a brick built semi-detached house (solid walls not cavity) and want to soundproof a bedroom party wall due to noise coming through from next door. The approximate area is 8 sq metres. The wall is solid brick and plastered (not plasterboard). From researching this there seem to be 2 main...

Thanks for the various advice. Is it possible to get a stand-alone RCD protection device (presumably this would fit between the consumer unit and the meter) to protect the whole system, and then I would probably upgrade the old fuses to MCB's? As opposed to replacing the whole consumer unit with...