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ok, sorry for all these q's, but want to be 100% sure here. so finally, i test the 3 wires and with each , touch earth with the other probe? when i test should i take all wires completely out of the wiring centre squares? or leave them in?

am going to test with cyl stat at 60 (no need to put it up as water is cold :( - this is Ok isn't it? ) also, whilst touching the wires mentioned - what do i touch with the other probe? i wanna get it 100% correct - and have only tested cont. and resist. before so am not 100& sure...

ok, i have only tested for resistance and continuity before with my meter. so i put the meter to ac current and is the 600 setting OK? just looked inside the casing and you are spot on, one joing up to orange (the call wire i beieve) one to grey (the satisfied wire i beieve) and the other...

yes i own a multimeter - have used it before to test my thermostat on immersion. how do i get h/w with just htg working ... please help!!!! also .... whats the easiest/quickest way of using my multi to test to see if the cyinder stat is broken?

yeah the valve lever has NO resistance when htg is off. but no hw-maybe the cyinder stat has failed to make contacts. how can i prove this? also, is it possibe to have h/w on with heating only working, like by moving the manua ever over? i believe you can have heating on this way when h/w...

still no hot water :(

with a 3 port mid position mot. valve - if the motor fails you can manually open the valve fully and hae heating on when hot water is calling - until the hot water is satisfied. but if the hot water isn't heating up, can you manualy open it via the lever or to midway when heating is on, to...

I have to apologise, I have a 2KW heater, which is odd, I thought it was a standard 3KW one. Anyway from what I have learned today from this forum and from the 2 tests I did : The thermostat has failed and the element seems ok (ohms reading abour right). Probably over the years the switch...

heater has 3KW on the cover sticker. also the multi meter batteries have been in for quite a while and i of course do not use it often. i see, what you are saying is, bypass the thermostat and if the water heats up this way, then it proves the stat has failed? or not... i thought the...

if you have 2 x 2 port valves and push the manual lever of the faulty MV on the heating circuit over, then when the hot water is on then the heating circuit will get warm too. sounds like a faulty micro/auxiliary switch. i have had a faulty MV before and learned something from the situation!

yes i agree, about 26-28 ohms would be correct. but my heater is 3kw! i'll test it again, bear with me! btw what you are saying about the wires together - this is to prove the thermostat has failed right? i thought this was already proved though with the "no continuity" from L to T...

i can help here - i have had this problem before and had the MV changed. more than likely the micro switch isn't putting on power to the pump and boiler when heating is calling for heat. so you will need a new actuator (MV head more than likely) or if the MV is an older type then a whole new...

sorry you've lost me ... why would it mean I have a 2kw element? I think it's a standard 3 kw but i'll take it look. i'm not sure what you mean? bypass the thermostat then re-energise, what do you mean exactly? sorry!

just a thought after reading this post, if they are new rads added and not just replacment for older rads, then possibly the boiler's KW output isn't enough for 3 more rads?? just a thought? other than that it's probably 99% that the system isn't balanced yet !

thanks weseeyou, i was just there about 20 mins ago but your explanation is very clear and helpful too. i really appreciate it. would you be able to also answer my above reply to this post about the thermostat switch possibly being stucj/worn out, the ohms reading i got and the cause of it...

just tested the resistance (with the power off again) between the L and N terminals and it read 28 - is that really bad? does this mean also the element has failed? why would this be? scale...?? wear and tear??

done it, well the first part, again as you said with power off. no continuity between L and T. so i suppose the thermostat is stuck in the satisfied position and not opening. so the thermostat has failed.

Thanks Softus. You're tops. I owe you a pint, or ten!! :D Oh just a continuity test (with power off) across L & T instead then. OK so 18-19 ohms or a bit less is ok, but any more is a faulty element. And yes sorry Incoloy!!! I was close :) one last point?! what is the reason...

Sorry for all this confusion in my post! And my first post on this forum too! Can we start again please and from your advice can you please explain to me the following/correct me where i am wrong (i would be so grateful for your help and for "educating me"!!) I am not usually this much of a...

well i wondered if that could be done, just like measuring the voltage from the live to the thermostat terminals. i am thinking now that this will not work... feel so stupid.