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As above. Using EPDM means you will need firings/Osb/vcl/insulation/osb/epdm.

As above. Using EPDM means you will need firings/Osb/vcl/insulation/osb/epdm.

As above. However, they look like asbestos eternits to me. You might get lucky and ease a tray under.

Fibreglass is for boats.

Of what system do you speak ?

40 mm screw will do.

Shed roof is ?

For what application? I like Koraflex as a cover flashing where lead will go missing.

The whole thing is dire, where's the eave tray on the left ? and the abutment detail is on another level of bad.

That'll be 2 of us.:mrgreen:

I've fitted 140mm with TLX Gold underlay. That's in a 220 Rafter. This gives me .16 No need for insulated plasterboard as did not want to lose height. Not sure an extension will need to meet new build regs.

10mm sag on that :)

Righty ho. DPC is a total waste of time then. Fitted for no reason at all, eh ?

You would consider bridging the DPC daft ?

Seriously ! ? :eek:

You won't get it done correctly in lead for £850. Over that run, it should be a stepped valley in code 5. Any membrane will do the job, although I wouldn't like to use heat in those confines. As said, drip/trim details need sorting as well.

I would hazard a guess that your VB is leaking and you have interstitial condensation forming. Ideally you will need to remove Rockwall before converting to warm roof.

As has been asked, what vapour barrier is there ?

Perfectly fine. Used reclaimed on mine. Allow a higher percentage of waste.

If your window faces a road, dormer may require planning. If you put a wider Velux in, there is beefing and trimming of existing rafters, making good internally also. 2 very good men 2-3 days, but very good men cost more than average men that would make a weeks work out of it. Velux can be...