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Try opening and closing it a few times. You may also be able to tighten the spindle up with the hexagon screw at the back.

as both Terry and I have both said, if the problem is with the post purge unit, then changing the burner will not saolve the fan running on problem. You need to feed the motor live feed direct from terminal 4, and disconnect the ppu conections and make them safe.

which is what I said, but gave a bit more detail to the OP who would have had difficulty with the short version above.

whilst not disagreeing with all the above, you have little to lose by cleaning off the joint and trying the selfamalgating tape if you can't/don't have soldering equipment. If you do, it is essential to ensure a good stretch, generally twice the length. and lay and well past both ends of the...

The difficulty with the Worcester unit is that all the connections are multi plug, and without the unit to look at physically, I can't be sure how to overide it. Basically the burner motor is driven from terminal 4 in the base, but this goes into the PPU and drives the motor from the yellow...

Yes, you have a post purge unit. The motor feed from the control box (pink wire) feeds this unit. This unit then puts a feed back to the motor to run the burner, and this unit also keeps the burner motor running for a period after extinguising. This is what has failed, but at £120 + vat, I would...

sorry, should have said if the burner motor runs on after the burner extinguishes. Do you have a wiring diagram for your boiler/burner? Is there a post purge timer/pcb?

if the burner carries on for a period then you have a postpurge timer and it has probably failed. It is easy enough to remove this and rewire the control box to convert to running without it. I think it is an obsolete part, and later models did not have it.

Not uncommon on Warmflows, especially if there has been no service for an extended period and a bit of scale has built up on the baffles, or the condensing heat exchanger is partially obstructed.

You originally said with both water and heating switched off, the burner fan ran. Was it actually firing or just the fan running? Do you have any frost stat fitted? Is there also a fan purge timer fitted? They were standard on older models.

Disconnect the photocell and see if it stops. If you have a plug-in cell which is most likely, then it is easy, but if an old cell, then you need to remove the box and disconnect at the base.

Check that the delivery driver has turned the oil back on your tank after the fill up.Turn off the power to the boiler. Remove the nut at the top centre of the red Riello case and withdraw the burner complete. Turn off the oil supply at the chrome tap between the green pipe and the copper oil...

If it all works on ON but not timed, then the valves are working. Check the timer outputs at the junction box, but I'm pretty sure the programmer is fluffed.

You are comparing fish and fowl. TRO's lasted for years, and as tou point out, are relatively inefficient. Todays boilers are a different breed, built for efficiency, and like other things, built cheaper and from poorer materials. I think that the deadlines about future fittings are already...

I would never buy a 2nd hand oil combi, even a 'respected' one. ( I earned a good living servicing and repairing oil boilers) Just to add, You would probably find the flue will need replacing, and depending where and for how long it has been standing, there may well be some pockets of solidified...

Is the pump as old as the boiler?

Not knowing what was there to start with, I assume that he has replaced a diverter valve with a y plan because that was all he had. The cylinder will still be on gravity, but you need the HW switched on to fire the boiler.

Taking off the flow pipe will not give tou any idea of the circulation rate as you will lose any syphon head from the system. If we are talking about a gravity hot water system, if you do not wish to adapt to fully pumped, than you will need to have a cylinder specially made.

Given that there are isolation valve built into the boilet for flow, return and hot water out, I'm sure there would be one for cold water inlet, but cannot see from your picture. The other valves are the square silver projections from the top. If you follow the cold water inlet pipe back through...

Diverter valve?