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Any one serviced or done any work on a heating system with a vokera option combi boiler? Seems strange as you have to lower a flip down cover by removing too screws to view the pressure . Not great for the customer.

Ok so if its a new system new pipe-work and rads. As long as you flush the system after initial filling then add inhibitor it will likely be ok without.

Is a filter needed?

Yes I know what you were going to suggest

Is a room. Boiler is on the middle story of a 3 story house.

IMG_20151120_143539 by Riley26 posted 22 Nov 2015 at 5:11 PMWhen installing a boiler with pipes ran behind the boiler by a stand off kit. I am guessing it is had to install a filter. In situations like in the picture.

The online copy of the viper book I have doesn't mention dry testing the pipe before covering well it does but doesn't mention the pressure to do it at. The gas person I have worked with before sadly doesn't bother testing it before taping and covering.

Any help on this? I am studying to get my gas qualifications through doing my nvq level 3

Any help on this I am studying to become gas safe. Through doing my NVQ level 3

When dry pressure testing a gas pipe before the meter is connected. Do you tend to just go to 1.5 times working pressure. Meaning a pressure of 0.2 x 1.5. So 0.3mb. Or is it advisable to go higher than this if pipes are getting encased etc.

But that would mean I'd have to daub the board on too?

So how did you go about the encasing in daubs of adhesive. As, as you have said you can't trust anyone to do anything right?

Yes but surely gas pipework needs to be correct.

Any one got any input that has worked on new builds?

Well the method I have seen on new builds before is to chase the pipe in a horizontal chase and encase in dry wall adhesive. Neither heard of the continuous daubs of adhesive around the pipe, but as you say if this is now the method for having a pipe behind dot and daub plaster could never...

When a gas pipe in installed behind dot and daub plaster it need a continuous daub of adhesive around the pipe. Can you really rely on the plasterer to do this on a new build install.

When using coated copper and cutting the coating off to solder a fittings. Is it then standard to just tape up the area you removed the coating from?

Dan are you saying u cut a section of board out after it has been plastered then put a noggin in?

It's just I no I could trust the plasterer to do it. Just wondered if any one else gets there plasterer to do this. Or if it was a stupid idea

Thanks, but getting the plasterer to dab out an area would be a good idea though? As I could use long screws to screw into the breeze without the risk of splitting the plasterboard?