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To the left of the fridge is a wall, at the oposite end is open plan to the dining room. I tried to do a design with the sink by the window but there is no enough space due to: 1) kitchen being narrow (1.9m) for two sets of standard units 2) expensive to move boiler (located next to sink) 3)...

mnb - I just read you last piece of advice, I will contact BCO. Thanks.

ColJack: The gap at end of run is the space for the fridge-freezer handle (built-in unit). 1john: The kitchen is a blank canvas, freshly plastered walls and I am running all services under plinth level. I hear what you are saying about Ikea but the cost saving is substantial. I was under...

I could do with some opinions on my kitchen plan. I've used filler in the base units to keep the top and bottom units aligned. Is this the right approach to take or would it be ok to have the top and bottom units out of allignment? We've decided on IKEA for price reasons. Any...

Static thank you very much for the quick reply, I am at work and having a slight panic about my weekend building activities. Your lateral support comment regarding the exterior wall makes a lot of sense to me. I have done quite a lot of research about the support from above and an 99.9% sure...

I opened a new thread because I thought this was a separate issue about cutting bricks. When writing the post that I thought I should explain the house layout so that the question was in context. Apologies if this is the wrong etiquette. The wall that I propose (already removed top two...

I am in the process of demolishing a non load bearing internal masonry wall, the wall is between the kitchen and dining room. Here is a photo of the wall: and a plan of the house: . The house is a 1950's ex-council, the external walls are 2 skinned fletton bricks with cavity. I have...

Thanks for the reply mnb, I could do with some good advice. Here is a plan of the house: and a picture of the kitchen: - I tested the external main stop cock before digging and can confirm that this works. - The house is a 1950's ex-council and has solid floors, from what I have...

I've dug out the rising main by about 1m and haven't come to a bend or a connection point. I'm also thinking that if I do get to a connection point then I will have to make a pretty big hole in the kitchen to get a grip on the pipe. I've been looking at threads on Philmac Universal...

A couple of questions about fitting sockets in cupboards that is puzzling me: 1) If you were to fit sockets in the cupboards can these be standard wall sockets? 2) When people say "fit the socket in the cupboard", do they mean mount ogn the wooden unit or mount it to the wall (with a cut...

Would it be ok if I run the waste branch pipe across the house and plumb directly into the soil pipe? I need to replace the current cast iron one anyway. If you look at the photo of the back of the house the new waste pipe will exit just below the door (which will become a window), the pipe...

I have completed some more research with regard to this post. It would appear that joining to the existing man hole is quite an involving task, I would have to add a slipper joint and then concrete the benching. I then think I would need to involve a building inspection. I think it will...

Is it better to have gradual bends in the pipe (i.e. bending the pipe itself) rather than using specific joints (i.e. 90 degree elbows), or should I do whatever is easiest. Thanks for all of the replies to this post.

I plan to change the location of the kitchen waste pipe and need to install the appropriate drain externally to link up with the sewer. Here is a picture of the back of the house which shows the two gullies and soil pipe. Here is a rough schematic showing the current drainage layout...