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No - when the ramp trips the breaker it does it instantly, literally within a second of pressing the button. Barely enough time for the motor to grunt. It's never had the decency to wait longer before it trips!

Been thinking about this more and more. The ramp rarely, if ever trips on the descent cycle. The way it descends is to lift the safety locks via pneumatic pressure, run the motor for around 3-4 seconds to take the load off them and then slowly releases the pressure in the hydraulics. I'm...

Not too much stress I suppose. The sensible thing to do would be to access the T&E where it goes into the wall (which can be done), put a box there and convert it to SWA instead. Run that in the wall (made easier as presumably you don't need to run it via safe zones do you?) and reconnect it...

Guys - you're really doing me proud with this one. Thanks a million. To try and answer all of the questions... RF:- Garage Feed in the house is 40A Type B MCB. In garage, we have 32A for the ramp, 32A for sockets and 6A for lights. They're all Type B. A very small run of T&E is...

Guys thanks This is a royal pain, but the 'proper' solution is I would imagine to run a new feed to the motor in SWA very much as Ban suggests. Very difficult in grade 2 listed house. I can't immediately see references to stall current and acceleration time. It's a pretty big motor with...

Whilst your sweeping judgement may well be true (accepting that you have not seen the installation and are accepting the description of an amateur) it is not especially helpful. So help me out. Exercise your not inconsiderable brain in assisting me explain in plain English what my 'clearly'...

RF - again, thanks for your help. Routing the T&E was the expensive part of the job, so routing some fat earthing alongside it is not something I'd like to contemplate. Making a TT earth in the garage on the other hand, would, in theory, be relatively easy. Tempted to hack out the lead...

RF - your reply looks about right. To answer (I think) all the questions:- - Supply is T&E through the house, switching over to SWA outside. It's all definitely 10mm. - The run is probably - guessing here - 30-40m. - Ramp motor is rated at 14.7A and 2.2kw. Don't think there's another metal...

Hi all I am the proud owner of a mid-size scissor lift, with which I can lift up cars. I've owned this for around a year, but just moved house and after a Herculean feat of removal, the ramp came with me. For the new house, I had a sparky re-wire the garage (and half the house!) to...

The OP asked a pretty reasonable 'ordinary punter' type question and let's see what happened... 1. Hit by a volley of hyperlinks to read things he/she won't understand and doesn't need to read. He/she wants to install a cooker, not qualify as an electrician. 2. A good, sensible reply from...

Good point. We're new in the house, so they were put in by the previous owners. I think I'll replace them with energy saving bulbs and see if that makes a difference.

We've just had our third light bulb explode in about a month. Like really explode with a big bang. This time, it punctured a hole in the screw at the bottom. Last time it showered my wife with glass. So it's all pretty exciting. Different bulb, different light, different circuit each time...

No particular reason why it should slip off. Is something putting it under strain? The amount that B&Q charge for these things is scandalous. You need a plumbers merchant, but I can understand how these things can be a bit intimidating for first timers if you don't know exactly what you're...

Wow. Did I read that right? You put your phone, the thing that involves primarily your face, and specifically, your mouth, down drains to record videos? Man - that's brave. Do you get sick a lot?

I had one of these once at an old house. Lived with it for long enough and then in a pique of anger woke up one morning and ripped the damn thing off the wall. Found that someone had punched the overflow through into the soil pipe and had left a 3 inch piece of pipe protruding, which was...

That's a good map and Dan's right. We're in the hardest area. Have a look at some other joints around the house and see if there's evidence of them sealing. But to be honest, for the cost of a new flexi pipe, and/or olive, you may as well re-build it. I take it that you've arced the joint up...

Depending on what the water hardness is like where you live, you might find that the leak sorts itself out. I've had a few of these tiny little leaks in the house, and over time the limescale builds up and the leak simply seals itself. Look at half of the soldered joints in the house and I...

Good observation, although some don't even make the 5 post mark. Depends if the pragmatists get in before the paranoid hysterical. Think how many posts die in a hail of 'Part P, Building Control, illegal, testing etc. etc.' bullets!! And the ordinary punter simply marks this off as one of...

Tell me all about it. This is my current project as well. (1619, but not thatched). Pick only local tradesmen who live in villages, preferably in old houses. We've found some very good ones that way. The plumber spent an hour walking around the house generally enthusing over it before he started...

The word 'simply' is ill chosen in their literature. And by the time I had finished with it, 'reused' would also have been somewhat inadvisable.