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i think you will have to be more specific!

have got a couple of very heavy duty solid oak doors (reclaimed) that can be reworked to new sizes. i'm in manchester, just let me know the dimensions if you're interested.

use vertical sections of mdf same width (or slightly less) as shelves as dividers and to link top and bottom shelves together making them much much stronger. so it looks a like a ladder (on it's side) from the front. to join them you can screw into 18mm MDF "end grain" if you carefully pilot...

with 3 hinges you mean? yes if they're not inline the door will have a life of it's own as the hinge stile bends and twists. an internal door should get away with 2 hinges depending on weight, but they can help stop it warping i suppose.

not stumped, not sure why no response.. 1) i use a very small amount of this in the joint instead of silicone or glue before clamping up the joint. it doesn't interfere with everything like silicone. unibond do one as well make sure it says "paintable"...

teak oil may be dark enough for you - it's a mix of linseed and tung. or just boiled linseed oil. cheap and cheerful. wipe off excess after 20 mins. leave to dry for 24hours or so and repeat a couple of times.

my mum swears by lord shearaton liquid gold for stripping old waxes and dirt whilst nourishing wood. that might be enough for you for the legs, the top is quite bare though. danish oil contains polyurethane and is a compromise between an oiled finish (like linseed, tung) and a PU varnish (aka...

with the door open, looking at the hinges attached to the frame, they should be plumb with each other (regardless of the frame). otherwise the door will swing open or closed (top hinge into room - door swings open and vice versa).

norton (or other) blue zirconium - sharpness lasts longer, pretty much essential for hardwoods if you value your time. you can get them a lot cheaper than screwfix. eg bnd abrasives. otherwise no name red aluminium oxide, not convinced that bosch etc; offer any more wear for the money.

or poor frame construction or nstallation allowing moisture/water to collect in the glazing rebate causing the sealed unit glue to fail. 2 years is a bit quick though.

thanks i managed it quite quickly today using the instructions on henderson's and the garage door spares website. i used a couple of 7mm round bars (off my sash cramps) to alternately crank the spring tenser, i think i did about 30 full turns in the end, in two gos.

well according to the regs and their website there are other approved documents to be satisfied including document A for structure. my point was that they happily overlook draughts/leaks because that is "a workmanship issue" but they do claim to ensure conformance with specific building regs...

hi, i've got an up and over "canopy" garage door with the cables disconnected. the cables and spindles look as though they are still intact, but the big spring over the top of the door is completely untensioned. I am thinking that I will need to reconnect the cables with the door up, apply a...

another example of FENSA's uselessness... really what ARE they concerned with? Compliance with the building regulations approved document part A Structure means that the bay poles should be in. They could argue that th bay strength was not "made worse", but assuming you had wooden windows in...

sorry to hijack, there seem to be some people who may be able to help me. i am trying to understand the wiring connections for old phones and in particular the ringer to fix a small "problem". i bought a fully converted old dial phone. it works fine but will vibrate like the start of a ring...

if it's the same type ie double glazed hardwood.

4mm glass = 9.8kg/m2 hardwood varies by species, eg sapele typically 620kg/m3 or get the company above to do it for you.

FENSA is a self certification scheme instead of building control coming out to check compliance with regs. personally i would rather have an independent inspector round. it definitely does not assure workmanship (eg draughtproofing), or any comeback if the firm goes bust. search around on this...

really, you need to try to identify what has been put on them already. oil or wax won't take if it's been varnished or treated with a high solids stain. only where it's down to the bare wood. if there's evidence of a surface layer peeling or cracking then you will be in this situation and need...

problem is the cold in and DHW out pipes have been stolen! i have had a quick look and couldn't see any markings. does any one have any tips if it is not marked under the cover? eg how to tell the in and out of the heat exchanger - connections to diverter valve etc; should there be a...