Search results

Have used this in the past: https://www.toolstation.com/tct-core-drill/p69846 Only £13 for the core drill, core adapter and core pilot drill. You need an SDS drill as well but I already had one of those. Worked fine on for me a block wall but many of the reviews are bad so probably no good for...

You don't need a certificate. If it crops up as an issue when you sell your house your conveyancer will arrange indemnity insurance for about £50.

What are the shipping costs involved in ordering parts from the US? What happens if you need to return components? It's a lot less risk and hassle to use a 'configure your own' site. You can choose what you want and they build it for you...

Who is doing the roof next door? It looks like work in progress with spare tiles dotted around. They had the sense to use full tiles down the centre whereas yours has cut tiles down the middle and full tiles down the edge. Focusing on qualifications probably isn't the answer, would you rather...

There are lots of other options, such as not spurring from the ring (but I appreciate that's probably beyond the changes you are looking to make at the moment). If you are drawing 15A in the garage and 15A on the ring then the ring MCB will trip before the garage. It depends how the ring is...

I didn't mean that the FCU on the ring would blow, I'm saying the house RCD will trip and you'll lose all power to the house and garage. A faulty appliance in the garage or water ingress or earth leakage etc will trip the house RCD which will be very irritating to family members. Also if you...

If you spur from a ring in the house to the garage and then installed a small CU in the garage, any problems in the garage can still trip the RCD in the house CU. You'd lose some or all of the electrics in the house as well as the garage so that's very inconvenient and certainly doesn't provide...

Yes the top of the cylinder is normal. There is an immersion and there is pipework as you describe - the hot water exits the cylinder at the top and there is a vent there too (leading to the big loft tank). There are no issues with the flow of the hot water out of the taps. Once the HW is heated...

There aren't any labels at all unfortunately. However I've traced the vent pipe and it does go up to the loft tank so I'm certain of that now. I think I know what's been confusing me. The vent from the boiler feed joins up with the vent from the Aga feed. So hot water flows around these vent...

If the labelling in the picture above is wrong, and the Boiler Return is as labelled below then there must be a leak in the coil or a blocked coil because the pipes at the bottom right are stone cold when the boiler is running.

The HW cylinder has 2 coils (one from oil boiler one from oil Aga) and an electric immersion. As you say, I may well have incorrectly identified the vent (a heating engineer told me it was the vent to the loft tank though). I'll post some more pictures to give a clearer idea. Firstly let's take...

It's an ancient oil boiler so there's no pump in it, the pump is on the CH pipes. I can see the whole run of the HW pipes and there is no pump. When the boiler comes on the flow pipe heats up very quickly but it takes ages for the return to heat up because the water circulates slowly. The...

It's a normal boiler, not a combi or system boiler. It's open vented with 2 tanks in the loft. I will leave the venting as is then if it's correct to vent to the loft tank. There is a pump on the CH circuit but not on the HW. Is it advisable to add a small pump to the HW to speed thing up? A...

It’s an oil boiler. The last time it was serviced the engineer confirmed that the central heating is pumped but the HW is gravity and expected it to be a bit slow. I’ll fit an auto air vent as you describe. I can’t understand why they piped it all the way up to the loft tank to vent? Edit: I...

The hot water pipe from the boiler to the H/W Cylinder is slow to circulate. There's no pump, it works off gravity. The pipework looks messy, the tee for the vent pipe off the main pipe is in the wrong place. If I crack the nut, sometimes air comes out. Does it make sense to move the vent pipe...

I sawed off the pipes and fitted caps. The front one needs redoing but it'll do for now, it's separate from the wall that's being demolished so that's the main thing.

I've been nervous to damage it, if I break something I can't fix I'll probably stink the village out because the soil pipe is connected to the septic tank. I ordered cap ends in various sizes from ebay so I'll wait for those then see what dismantles, some of the push fits are glued together...

This part comes away easily but the hole is 200mm in circumference (approx 63mm diam) whereas my cap ends are normal pipe sizes like 110mm, 40mm, 32mm etc. I'm probably just googling for the wrong thing. Is their a specific name for the cap end that fits into these soil pipe fittings?

I need to detach the toilet and sink pipes from this soil pipe (they won't be added back later I just want a straight soil pipe remaining). I have caps so I can cap off the branches on the existing fitting but they won't budge, they are glued together. I could probably get a straight cut...