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Good, thanks to both again, I think we can put this to bed with option 1 and be done as dusted! Thanks

ok so there are obviously many conflicting opinions. I have ordered the 2.5mm Butyl cable from TLC so as I understand, I have these options: 1) 32A MCB (As it is now) ---> 6mm2 T+E ---> 45A Cooker supply socket with extra socket for hob ---> Direct connection from back of this socket...

actually its currently H05RR-F

Ok well seeing as you both have said that 1.5 would do, I could just use the existing 1.5 which I believe is butyl already, and then buy some of that online. Then I could return the screwfix lot and get back the huge amount they charged me!

By the way I picked up some of this http://m.screwfix.com/p/heat-resistant-flexible-cable-3093y-3-core-2-5mm-x-5m-white/80786 Is that suitable? Says for storage heaters Etc, not ovens and I know there a various types of heat resistant flex so will this do?

Great well not using 1.5 but looks like 2.5 is fine then. Thanks both

Ok so it looks like i'll be safe with 2.5 then. I can't get 4mm anywhere this evening anyway and need to fit it today really.

I'm just reading another thread and it says if a 32a circuit then either use larger cable for the flex or fuse down along the way. So to reiterate, is it ok to connect a 2.5mm flex directly to the rear of the cooker socket i.e. something like this...

Thank you, so if I put 2.5mm flex in, will the cable itself be suitably protected by the fusing in place along the circuit?

Just had a delivery of a new oven, its rated 16A. My new electrical work that I had done recently gave me a cooker circuit with a 32A MCB > 6mm T+E > 45A Cooker Socket > old oven wired directly to back of this with 1.5mm heat resistant flex. I take it that I cannot use this so what do i...

Ok thanks for the reassurance. I have no idea how strong the boards are and how the load is transferred and how its distributed. From the sounds of it the rack isn't going to come crashing down onto someones head then! Maybe ill leave it as it is!

ok so you think it will be pretty substantial in its load bearing capacity? I've had a look underneath, and running parallel to the blockwork at each edge is a batten of wood, so if I could manuvere under there, which would be extremely difficult, would it be worth adding some more bracing to...

Hi all I have recently had the new house rewired and as part of that I have installed a lot of AV/networking etc. This is all terminated back to a central cupboard. The cupboard in question is in a bedroom as is actually the cupboard above the stair case. So the cupboard is raised off the...

mods apologies please move to the correct plastering forum. Thanks

Hi after a little advice. I have built a false chimney around an existing chimney to house a recessed tv and a second recess above the tv to be used for ornaments and so on My question is that I have built the stud work intentionally too far apart height wise for the top shelf. The...

Thanks. The material is soft, crumbly. I have been keeping it wet while working in the area. As I am fairly confident it's asbestos containing, I was planning on covering the area with Mortar/quick set cement because it does not need to come out as the whole fireplace is being boxed in anyway.

Thanks. I would have if i'd known it was there but it was too late before I realised :(

Hi I have just had my back boiler removed and as part of that there was a asbestos flue. That was removed and caused no problems. My plan has been to dismantle the old fireplace by taking it back to bare brick before building a stud wall around it for recessed TV etc. While removing the...