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I'm not an expert, however as a CG1 terminal has a closed top, rain shouldn't get into the chimney. I'm therefore not sure you need a vent at the bottom as the flue will stay dry anyway. Unless air from inside the house can permeate through the chimney wall and condense on the cold surfaces within?

You'll just need very short lengths of round pipe to run from the outlet to the adaptor.

That is my opposite concern. I'm getting a sample taken and will go from there. If it was just artex that got drilled I'd have not posted this thread. As AIB is softer/higher asbestos content it is more worrying. What I could see looked almost like a fine brown glass fibre but the colour of...

No, just used it round the house. My main concern was dust on the wheels being taken round the house then being sucked up/blown out again. Plus the time lapse between the work being done and finding out. Perhaps if I'd discovered it the day after I'd have been more inclined to wipe it up and...

One company I spoke to suggested carrying out air tests if the sample is positive, does anyone have any opinions on these? Obviously it will pick up fibres in the air but it does leave potential for dust in the carpets not to be picked up.

I appreciate we are exposed to low levels of asbestos all the time, but I'd have thought that fibre release from power drilling a 20mm dia hole would not be miniscule. Add in that the hall is carpeted and that a normal hoover filter will let asbestos fibres through, I think this a bigger cause...

Some months ago an electrician drilled through our understairs cupboard wall to route a cable outside. So far so good. Yesterday whilst looking in the cupboard, I shone my torch on the cable hole and noticed that the hole has a couple of strands poking backwards where the hole broke out...

Probably not mdf thinking about it, but >22mm ply that's well secured to the wall should be ok unless it's a heavy door. Or the above suggestion will work just as well.

As a door liner is simply wooden board with door stops nailed in, I would just make my own from suitability wide boards. Use ply or mdf if you are going to be painting it anyway

It does look like the first coat is rather thin. A "strong" colour change is likely to need 2 or 3 coats. Cheaper paints tend to cover less well.

Why not just install an additional small CU (<4ways) for the charger?

Looks like it just needs more coats. Is that the first one?

I'm probably not going to be able to take one this weekend. What would you expect to see at the other end with the different types of construction?

I'd not thought of that. It will be a bit more expensive, but neater than a vent in the gable end.

They're Stonewolds.

I'd have to double check, but I'm pretty sure the ceiling joists sit on the wall plates. This is the best photo I've got at the moment

The photo shows the roof space above my bathroom extension, which is a 15 degree pitched roof, with a standard ceiling. The span of the roof is approx 8ft. I am assuming the horizontal timber at the apex is a ridge board. However the fact that it is rather large makes me wonder if it is in fact...

Yes its a dual coil and both coils are connected up. Like you say I've not seen a separate drain on a cylinder before, nor that particular fitting but it does seem the most likely thing.

My solar hot water cylinder does not have the usual drain cock on the cold feed. However it has this 15mm compression fitting at the bottom with the small hex fitting on the underside. There is a blanking disc in the compression fitting. Is this a drain off fitting for the cylinder or...

Thanks for the replies. I always understood a cold unventilated void would be more vulnerable to condensation. I am guessing that as water vapour is lighter than air, that moisture laden air is less likely to drop into the floor void? I did think that stuffing the void would be best to avoid...