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Having wall tiles in a bathroom and lino on the floor. So, should I fit timber skirting(prior to tiling) or should I tile to the floor and butt the lino up to the tiles? Hard to image how good the join between wall tiles and lino will be be.

I have a chrome waste trap for the basin, it ends in a 32mm push fit fitting. I have 40mm solvent waste pipe for the basin coming in from under the bath. I need to go from 40mm solvent to 32mm pushfit and the only place to do it is behind the bath where I won't be able to get at it again...

It's difficult because the chrome basin waste trap I have will be on show and it should go straight into the wall(cleanly). It's 32mm push fit. Don't really want the chrome waste entering the wall with a compression reducer on show.

I'd always use Hep2o previous and never have a problem. However, I can get the speedfit fittings much cheaper and I'm quite impressed with the new twist and lock ones. Much better than the old ones.

I have to go from 40mm solvent to 32mm push fit, the only way I know how to do this is with a compression reducer. The join will be behind the bath and not get-at-able and there's no other way for me to do it. I don't really like boxing in compression joints. No doubt the joint will be fine...

Is it possible to have a thread about push fit fittings without someone saying 'use copper'......? :roll:

Is it safe to use the combination of fittings? The super seal inserts are a very very tight fit into the PP pipe and once in they aren't coming out. Pipe w/insert seems to fit well into speedfit fittings but just wanted to make sure first. I use PP pipe because it seems to have more bend...

Our bath has a slight lip all the way round. I know it's not ideal to install a bath/shower screen with these types of baths but I'm sure it's possible. Any tips?

Got some grout sealer/tile impregnator to seal the grout in a bathroom/shower. Just applied and it's turned the white grout a dirty yellow color. V worried that this is not temporary, should I be?

NO, they don't!! As some have already said they don't use anything. Hard not to when installing a concealed shower, for example.

in a compression fitting seems to me there's 3 lines of defence. First, the most important is the seal between the top of the olive and the female fitting. If that happens to fail there's 2 other places where water could weep out, where the bottom of the olive meets the nut and then the thread...

See, the reason I use it is to make sure it never leaks. Then I don't have to worry about putting it on if it does ever leak. It takes seconds and it can only be seen if you lie on the floor looking up at your rad valves. As you say, a tiny scratch in the olive can cause a weep, worsened by the...

Reading a few older threads I often hear people say 'never use PTFE round olives' Why? I always do and cannot remember the last time I had a weep. I'll first tighten the joint so the olive compresses the pipe, undo then I apply PTFE round the olive as well as the thread... Just extra...

I've used those too..... The problem is if the TRV does not fully close, when you come to take off the blanking nut to put the rad back on it sprays everywhere as you're undoing the nut. Kinda annoying on newly painted walls. So I use them on the non thermostatic side and on the TRV I use...

Be careful of thermostatic valves. They never seems to close properly. I removed a rad over the weekend to decorate, something I've done plenty of times before and the bloody thermostatic siemens valve would not close fully. It basically drained the whole system

yes. It's a lot easier to thread through floor joists and round corners than copper pipe.

The pipe is fine. Chances are they will join some copper or chrome to the plastic when they connect up the radiator, that is if there's going to be pipework on show, if not then they probably won't. Plastic pipe will be being used for long runs. All sounds fine to me.

It seems my description of the problem wasn't entirely accurate.....(sorry, boilers aren't my thing)... What's happening is the pressure is gradually failing and it needs topping up 3/4 times a day. So what I thought was releasing it, was actually topping it up. First plumber we had says...

That looks like a big crack. Something is moving.... if you can't stop it moving then you need to fill it with something that can accommodate the movement. Even then I doubt you'll fully conceal it if it continues to expand and contract.

Whenever I'm out an about I always take note of various building details etc.... recently I'm seeing more and more MDF being used as a direct replacement for plasterboard. One example, new hotel nr Leeds. Large sections of wall have been built with MDF sheets, screw holes filled and painted...