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I used E profile EPDM tape... seems to work fine. However, because I used the one without a lip I still feel the need to run some silicone along the bottom to prevent sitting water. I couldn't justify the cost of a 100m reel and had some E profile already.

At least once a day we have to manually release the pressure on our CB28 in order to get hot water. The overflow is forever releasing water! Any ideas what the problem might be? I have a plumber coming round to look at it but always worth getting a back of background beforehand.

We own various 19th century terrace properties and experience the opposite. Condensation on windows is much much worse when central heating is on and the house is warm. When we have empty properties (read: no heating inside) there's no condensation issues to deal with. So I disagree with...

Funny you should mention the item in the first link as I was thinking about using those.... Aren't they the exact same thing as draught excluders? ie, what you stick round the door frame to close gaps and stop draughts?

I have a couple of double glazing panels to replace the single panes of glass in our timber door frame... The question is, what's the best way to seal it? The glazing will be sandwiched between timber strip wood. Do I silicon the inside of the rebate before inserting the gloass? and/or...

Out of interest why wouldn't you want dot and dot?

If you were to build your own house, what method of dry lining would you specify? Assuming the building is of standard block construction. - dot and dab - Metal C stud + pboard - Timber + pboard Cost and time aside. Which is least susceptible to movement and cracking? Which is...

I was only told this today so I have one plumbers word to go off. I'm just merely seeking clarification as what one corgi registered plumbers says to a customer about another plumbers work might not always be entirely accurate.

Is it a requirement to have an isolating tap fitted to isolate the hob? We had a corgi reg plumber fit a hob for us and he didn't fit a tap, another plumber(corgi again) doing some work for us says it must have a tap on it...?

Whatever you do DO NOT use water down PVA. Once dry it's like painting over glass and will take more coats. We always seal with a mist coat of slightly watered down white matt emulsion. Then 2 coats of color. I also recommend micro fibre rollers, they're expensive but fantastic!! Homebase...

When caulking along the top of newly fitted skirting, do you caulk before glossing or afterwards, and why?.

Probably easier to cut/scribe the fire surround at the bottom where it meets the skirting if the surround is MDF.

Got a door frame from Arnold Laver, the rebated type that slots together. The size of the rebate is a smidgen less than 31", 780mm wide.... Joiner thinks we'll need to special order a door to fit. Why would they sell a door frame that would need a special order door? the nearest size...

I bought two identical 2w pullswitches, I only needed to wire them 1way. They were for the bedroom and bathroom. In both rooms I connected switched live to L1. In the bathroom this was fine. In the bedroom however the switch had to be pulled 3 times for the light to come on like so: pull...

If it helps, there's lots of videos on youtube showing american contractors taping and using "mud" on joins. Seems to be rather popular over there. Just search for "drywall".

Is this method used when not skimming? ie, painting straight onto the plasterboard?

If you fill the joint with a bit of bonding coat and tape and leave to dry. Will this need to be PVA'd before skimming with multi finish? Also, not entirely sure whether "skrim" refers to tape, or jointing compound.

So, next time I do any boarding/dry lining.... Should I be using tapered edge boards? And also would it help if I use jointing compound like this http://www.wickes.co.uk/Plaster-Ready-Mixed/Jointing-Compound/invt/220995 to smooth over the joints between the boards before the plasterer skims...

I didn't do the taping. Plasterer did and he uses the self adhesive mesh type tape. One theory of mine is that, if there's even a slight gap between the boards air gets trapped in there as he skims and causes the join to bubble ever so slightly. btw, you can't see or even feel these...

Did you bond it first? ie, bonding coat, hard coat, sand and cement?