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You're tiling into chipboard or whatever, yes? Cut a hole under one or more tiles around pipe joins or wherever you need access and silicone the tiles in rather than grouting them. Don't use adhesive behind the removable tiles either, and pack them off the board behind with a thin spacer if...

Hello, We have a hole in the wall where there was a back boiler and fire. We have a flueless, wall mounted gas fire to fit, obviously right on the hole in the breast. The gas supply sits at the back of the hole and will therefore need extending to the front and enter the back of the fire...

I've driven Rovers for years. Look after them properly, like you should with any car, and they're fine. Mine never missed a beat. Although the thread is months old, I will add that the 75, or of course the MG ZT, is worth considering for anyone in the market. It was designed and built when...

Fair enough. I fitted skirting boards today using regular screws and rawl plugs. Screws were a few quid for a box, rawl plugs were pennies. Hammer fixings cost a fortune in comparison for the sake of a bit change on the drill. Each to their own.

Gripfill is fast and easy if you have nice straight walls. If you need to bow the skirting at all, you need to screw it into place to hold the curve.

I'd use a proper wood bit to go through the skirting, go through to the plaster and just mark it for the masonry bit. If you're worried about the solidity of the plaster, go through to the block behind and put the plug in that.

Hello, We have removed a back boiler from the chimney breast in the living room, so now have a big hole, although neatly square. It's too small for a log burner, which we thought might have been fun but the associated costs of widening the breast will probably make it prohibitively expensive...

Surely the mellow would be yellow? ;) If anyone is wondering, the Rage3 is out of stock in the UK until October.

As title, what's the difference between the 210mm Rage3-S and Fury3? Anyone know? I can't figure it out if there is one. I can find the Fury in stock but not the Rage. If I'm not missing the bleedin obvious I'll buy the Fury! Thanks folks

I used a bucket of ready mixed plaster which is quick and simple. I had to work it back with a little water as it went a bit dry on the shelf, but it was very easy to use and cost about a tenner from B&Q for, I think, 5 litres. Found in the trade section, retail stuff like Polycell is the same...

No, 20mm isn't enough. When you dig down further you will disturb the solidity of the ground and it will need compacting. If the ground is not level and solid the mortar bed could sink and at the very least open up the joints, water gets in, freezes, and the thing starts falling apart.

You don't need hardcore because it has had concrete on it which has now been removed? I must admit I thought you meant the concrete remained and it had a blinding of soil over it in the photos :S If you're confident the underlying ground is solid, fine, but I would still compact the surface...

You replied as I did. If the ground really is solid, and doesn't have a layer of earth on top of the concrete (which you should remove if it does) then great. If you use sand alone you need to border it with something to stop is falling out of the edges of the slabs, eventually the rain will...

Out of curiosity, when you say dry mix you did add some water to it didn't you? It needs to be just damp enough to roll into a ball. And what sand did you use the second time around? It doesn't look like you've compacted anything, it's too loose so the slabs will sink all over the place and...

You need Polycell Basecoat, or the own brand equivalent, B&Q do one which is good and much cheaper. It's designed to cover stains and dark colours, just paint over it with the emulsion.

Edge it with an attractive kerb if you can, ie. not a block soldier course at the same level, and it should hold the gravel in just fine. This is what we're doing for our new driveway, but it has been forced a little as we have no drains anywhere on the front of our property and a downpour would...

I'm not a pro, but I would say no. The idea is to get a perfect blend between, say, wall and ceiling, which you can't do with lining paper alone, especially if the walls are not brand new. A thin bead of caulk smoothed down with the finger gives a nice clean finish.. If you're papering on...

They're called ingos north of the border ;)

IBCs are available on ebay throughout the country. Pipework, pumps etc can be had at local DIY or plumbing stores, or again ebay. :)

Sounds ok to me. There's no reason why IBCs can't be used underground, though. I'm no chemist but they shouldn't degrade too quickly. They come with a metal frame to add rigidity and protection, so get some treated timber or reformed plastic planks (www.reformedplastics.co.uk) and board round...