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I laid a piece of arris rail in the gutter to save the tyres, but it hadn't been there more than a couple of days before the council wrote threatening legal action and an offer to do the work. They insisted that they did it.

A further point - If you're running an HDI car with an in-tank fuel pump, the slightly heavier oil can burn out the lift pump.

If your engine is fitted with a Bosch pump, you should be OK using veggie oil, but beware if you're fitted with a Lucas - you'll damage the seals.

From my limited knowledge, if nothing happens when the knob is turned to the next 'start' number, it indicates a faulty programmer.

With the door closed and the machine switched on, what happens when the knob is turned to the next black dot? The neon should flash. Is the water turned on?

Hardboard won't make a successful job. Better to use marine ply well screwed down before tiling.

Use sharp sand and Portland cement - about 5 to 1. Only use sufficient water to mix it firm, not runny. Dampen the old concrete before pressing in the new.

Any number of reasons. If the cambelt snapped, for instance it would cause a lot of damage. An easy way out would be to visit a breaker for a swop engine.

The engine number may be on the left hand end of the front face of the block, but some have the number stamped on a machined flat at the flywheel end. If the number doesn't match up with the V5, then it's had an engine swop.

I did my bathroom several years ago tiling on tile. I cleaned and dried the old tiles well then used Wickes non-slip ready mixed.

When I did a kitchen extension, I ended up with a metre depth being taken out. The building inspector kept coming back always wanting more. When I protested that it was only a single storey, their reply was that someone in the future may want to build a second floor. Twenty years later, I...

Pretty sure I've seen them in Screwfix

That's right. 4x2 laying flat and fixed on top of the 100mm block wall. 4x2's standing upright and skew-nailed to the wall plates with the 18mm chipboard on top. The 12mm facia was cut from 8x4 sheets and fixed to the joist ends and wall plates, overlapping the blocks by 25mm. So each...

If it's a uPVC door you're after - try www.U-fit.co.uk They'll make you one to your size.

When I built my kitchen extension, the BI made an extra visit to see the foundations each side of the pipe with the lintol bridging over it. The layout had to be shown on the plans with the necessary reinforcement shown.

Use some window sealant forced into the gap, preferably from the outside, using a sealant gun. Clean off the surplus whilst it's still soft.

Open some windows to let the condensation away - or fit an extractor.

What sort of window frame is it? uPVC, or wood? Do you mean the frame is loose to the brickwork or the glazed unit to the frame?

Is the pump working? Providing at least one rad valve is open, water should squirt out when the bleed valve is opened.

You sun room sounds very similar to the workshop I built fifteen years ago at the end of my garden, except I used concrete blocks. On the roof, I used 4x2 timbers at 600mm centres, with 18mm chipboard on top. I then nailed down two layers of underfelt with a mineralised top layer fixed with...