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  1. R

    NEW PLASTIC GUTTERS - BALLPARK PRICE:

    Hi all - I’m thinking to replace the cast iron gutters in my (semi-detached with driveway) property to the side (about 30’ long) and to the rear (about 18’ long) with plastic gutters and would like a rough idea of costs (to see if I can afford it!). The rear guttering is easily accessible from...
  2. R

    VELUX WINDOWS:

    Thanks again, that's probably the reason then - though membrane and battens haven't been fitted (yet). The moral of the story is to order materials in good time if possible, although the delays now encountered with certain items was probably unforeseen. I remember a year ago I couldn't get a...
  3. R

    VELUX WINDOWS:

    Must admit I don't know much about installing Velux windows but it occurs to me that it's presumably easier with unrestricted access both inside and outside? I'm not sure who's doing the install but it may be the reason for the roofer wanting to defer his work?
  4. R

    VELUX WINDOWS:

    Thanks for that. You'd think so but the roofer thinks otherwise?
  5. R

    VELUX WINDOWS:

    A friend is having a single-storey extension built which has 2 side by side Velux windows. There is considerable delay on delivery of the windows and the roofer is not prepared to do his work until they arrive and are installed. Yet many Velux windows are retro fitted so surely it is possible to...
  6. R

    HONING GUIDES:

    Thanks for your (comprehensive) reply. I'm cautious but not as thorough as you (unsurprisingly!). But I've been using wet and dry (sprayed with water) which dries out eventually even after rinsing and the "tool" I used was a DIY guide - a simple clamp arrangement with mini plastic rollers. If I...
  7. R

    HONING GUIDES:

    I may have missed the point on not using water? - I think I've seen a few guys on YouTube using plain water or soapy water on wet&dry and diamond stones. Unless you mean my honing guide roller seizing up? - but, in fairness, it had laid unused for 30+ years! Initially I did try to free the...
  8. R

    HONING GUIDES:

    Yes, me too! I'm likely to use chisels only once or twice a year on soft woods and not for really intricate work. But as an exercise I wanted to get a couple of chisels very sharp (not scary sharp!) at low cost. I also sharpened a couple of plane blades which was a great improvement.
  9. R

    HONING GUIDES:

    Thanks again for all your tips and advice. I have since discovered (5 minutes ago!) that the roller is indeed meant to roll (what a surprise!) and I'm now feeling very stupid! After a few minutes with WD40 and some persuasion, it freed up - I hadn't used this guide for years, if at all. A shame...
  10. R

    HONING GUIDES:

    Thanks for that, you obviously know the expensive honing guide I'm referring to. I don't especially need scary sharp but sharp sharp would do - which I think I've achieved with a couple of chisels. I'm only an occasional DIYer and chisel user but a sharp chisel and plane were a joy to use...
  11. R

    HONING GUIDES:

    I’ve been looking at videos on chisel sharpening using wet and dry sandpaper. I am wondering why it’s so difficult to manufacture a simple chisel clamping device with rollers - top-end guides can cost £150? And even the classic honing guides often need to be reworked to hold chisels securely and...
  12. R

    STOPCOCK SEIZED:

    Not actually sure it's a detachable handle? - but I think Andy's method is the (safest) way to go. The tap actually turns about 1/8th back and forth but no more - I think the gland nut needs more loosening but it's awkward and also angled towards the wall. I'm sure you'd immediately dismantle...
  13. R

    STOPCOCK SEIZED:

    Yes, thanks for that - although I think it would be Mission Impossible to get at the innards. Think it's usually been fastened by Hercules and would need someone with Dilalio's grip to undo (he'd use his bare hands!). I've actually got an old spare stopcock I tried to undo out of curiosity but I...
  14. R

    STOPCOCK SEIZED:

    Thanks Andy. I was aware of that method and saw it again in the videos you linked to me. But I was thinking to (hopefully) open the gland nut just a little initially and see if that eases the tap. Regards.
  15. R

    STOPCOCK SEIZED:

    Here's a photo of the offending stopcock. Access is actually more awkward than the photo suggests and the adjacent pipework/fittings don't inspire confidence to interfere. The right hand nut on the stopcock is actually hard against the copper pipe in front, the pipe would have to be temporarily...
  16. R

    STOPCOCK SEIZED:

    Thanks Andy.
  17. R

    STOPCOCK SEIZED:

    Even pullergas was a bit wary about that wiped lead joint and said young plumbers would definitely be puzzled. Dilalio - you responded on that occasion too but only to have a go at pullergas!
  18. R

    STOPCOCK SEIZED:

    Thanks to all for the advice/ info. It's def not a gatevalve! Andy - you didn't reveal the secret of getting it working! Dilalio - with your grip, remind me not to shake hands! I'm sure you've done worse jobs - I've seen lots of videos that make my plumbing look respectable! But as I said...
  19. R

    STOPCOCK SEIZED:

    I'll try and post a photo later. I'm (obviously) not a plumber but I think the answer is bl**dy hard! No disrespect but I think sometimes even a plumber doesn't know exactly how much welly to use but can at least fix any disasters. My main stopcock seized once and a (old school) plumber fixed...
  20. R

    STOPCOCK SEIZED:

    Thanks for that but I don't think so. And the only alternative location wouldn't be convenient - worst of all it would require major kitchen dismantling! I always (try to) leave stopcocks a little closed when open and vice versa if you follow. I'd thought this stopcock was closed but after...
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