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well i always had a thought of trying it so i did. Bought a router, a jig and 4 63mm bits from toolstation. I need to cut some straight sections because of a standing cooker. I've attempted 1 edge with scope to take more off- just incase. This side will be covered but I dont want the cooker...

firstly thanks to those that helped with the cupboard hanging. All well and done now. Going to hire a kitchen/worktop fitter and wanted to know the costs so i don't pay over the odds. I would need 4 cuts excluding for a sink cut out on 665mm laminate board. I may also need the boards...

Hi John D, no your right I went for the 3"~ wall plates. Figured 6 fixings per cab. were better than the two from the ikea L brackets. The runs are quite short 1.3m and 1.4 widths. I'll have to stick with the wall plates since i've already ordered- unless the walls really bad...

Hey thanks thought so but good to confirm. That 2nd bracket with the screw holes and the 2 fins..what's that for? I have a hunch

hi guys, The fixings are the same for base and wall units. they give 8mm sideways and 8mm vertically but it seems like 1mm increments because of the notches. I've gone for these as they were in stock and 1m away :D, reasonably priced...

just a simple L bracket with an additional piece to enable some up/down left/right movement. No depth, well only adjustable by the screw fixing, screw in out. This one looks like it'll fit. only one way to find out. I mite trace that image on to help :s Ikea's back board hole is 25mm to...

Thanks J.A.K. I'm unsure if the standard holes in the ikea backing board would suit the dimensions of the hanging bracket - whether the hanging bit would line up perfectly to go through the pre made hole(i've emailed them). Other than that the rail system looks nifty.

Thanks HW. Its a 2mm metal bracket plus 3mm backboard so 70mm will go into the wall. The plug is 45mm so i could put another plug in and cut the protruding part off? sounds more secure. The blocks are thermalite so i'm also having a look at the resin fixings. I understand its a slightly...

hi, i have some kitchen cabinets to put up. They are ~90cm tall ikea units. The heaviest being a 23kg corner unit. The material is 2-3mm skim, 16mm sand/ cement render then breeze blocks. I cannot find flange or pan head screws so i've bought 12 gauge 3inch general screws with some small...

1.In the diagram, should gully 2 be a trapped gully. so then move the rain water pipe to that side. would that be ok? would sink waste water still be ok to route into this then. I thought you could just site the rain water pipe over the bottle gulley, in the wickes guide they say its ok fig...

hi Hugh, if thats the case ill make sure its 110mm(The orange/brown colour) and make sure gulley 1 and 2 are bottle gulleys. The red sections are all new. The existing 7m section should provide enough fall of 1:40 into a combined system, Another gulley and the existing soil pipe all join to it -...

hi guys, were about to have some drainage work done. the builder has opted for 2 gulleys, 1 for sink waste connected in a line via 50mm pipe to the other which is for shower waste and roof drainage. this is then forwarded around a bend to an access chamber, 100/110mm inlets. There is also a...

Thanks Hugh and Seco. The new drain is external yes and i'll confirm things with BD. 1.The design in the picture is that better ? 2. i guess it will need to be slightly angled because of the diameter of the chamber. 3. I believe the existing pipe is combined foul and surface water...

hey, i've taken a closer look at it. The gulley may need to be moved around the corner to use with a 50mm pipe at 4m length for sink and appliances. What i don't understand is- how is the sewage pipe rod-dable if the p trap is installed, i'm being thick lol. Pipes will be solvent welded and...