kitchen cabinets

[ragsta]

hi, i have some kitchen cabinets to put up. They are ~90cm tall ikea units. The heaviest being a 23kg corner unit.

The material is 2-3mm skim, 16mm sand/ cement render then breeze blocks. I cannot find flange or pan head screws so i've bought 12 gauge 3inch general screws with some small washers and i have 45mm brown plugs. I may use more than one plug and slightly angle the screw downwards. Will this give a secure enough fixing?

or i could use these?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/hollow-wall-anchor-5-x-72mm-16-32mm-pack-of-10/11143

Couldn't find any at wickes, screwfix or toolstation.

Thanks all

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

Hollow wall fixings are for stud wall's fixing through plaster board etc. Brown plugs work well with 10 and 12 gauge screw's use 7mm masonry bit ,red plugging work's well with 8 guage screw's use 5.5mm masonry bit. Don't bother angle drilling. It will start giving you grief. The length of screw's used depend's on the thickness of the material you are fixing through. A minimum of 40-50 mm fixing in the wall depending on the condition and strength of the background if you don't get a fixing then go deeper that's the rule

 

[ragsta]

Thanks HW. Its a 2mm metal bracket plus 3mm backboard so 70mm will go into the wall. The plug is 45mm so i could put another plug in and cut the protruding part off? sounds more secure.

The blocks are thermalite so i'm also having a look at the resin fixings. I understand its a slightly bigger hole, insert plug, let it set and then fix.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

The blocks are thermalite so i'm also having a look at the resin fixings. I understand its a slightly bigger hole, insert plug, let it set and then fix.

You can fix directly into lightweight Thermalite blocks with a decent deep thread screw (Spax, Reisser, etc) without any resin, plug, etc. Just drill a starter hole (not full depth) and screw straight in. That's assuming that your blocks really are the light grey, fine grained blocks.

BTW if you're putting up a run I'd recommend throwing the small metal wall plates and buying a section of this stuff. Well worth the cost as it allows you to get more fixings per cupboard and work around "soft" sections of wall

 

[ragsta]

Thanks J.A.K. I'm unsure if the standard holes in the ikea backing board would suit the dimensions of the hanging bracket - whether the hanging bit would line up perfectly to go through the pre made hole(i've emailed them). Other than that the rail system looks nifty.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Thanks J.A.K. I'm unsure if the standard holes in the ikea backing board would suit the dimensions of the hanging bracket - whether the hanging bit would line up perfectly to go through the pre made hole. Other than that the rail system looks nifty.

I'm not sure about IKEA kitchens - I've always avoided them - but most upper cabs made here, in Germany or Italy seem to come with an adjustable claw fixing in the cabinets and those rails are designed to work with that. How are your IKEA cabinets hung?

 

[ragsta]

just a simple L bracket with an additional piece to enable some up/down left/right movement. No depth, well only adjustable by the screw fixing, screw in out.

This one looks like it'll fit. only one way to find out. I mite trace that image on to help :s Ikea's back board hole is 25mm to centre from side and 45mm to centre~ from the top. I've already fitted some L brackets so now i have to make sure they get covered up assuming the melamine comes of the edge of the hole though.

http://www.woodfit.com/product_info... Bracket Nickel plated&&colour=&colour_match=

Thanks again

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

Re the Cabinet Hanging Rails posted by J K.

I like the look of these they could certainly get you out of trouble.when the sparkies and plumbers swear they have put services in the right place

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I mite trace that image on to help :s

inlike the look of these sections,they would get you round problems like pipes and wires when sparkies and plumbers swear they have put the services in the right place

I've had them from a couple of kitcghen trade specialists in the past, although the one firm who stock them consistently are Woodfit at Kem Mill, Chorley. the previous link has the contact details. Their catalogue is well worth getting hold of if you're fitting a kitchen although I do ghave to admiot that they aren't the cheapest

 

[foxhole]

I think there is confusion about fixings, Ikea wall cup's have fully adjustable fittings for the wall units, Ragst's description matches the floor [base] units?

 

[ragsta]

hi guys,

The fixings are the same for base and wall units. they give 8mm sideways and 8mm vertically but it seems like 1mm increments because of the notches.

I've gone for these as they were in stock and 1m away , reasonably priced

http://www.screwfix.com/p/cabinet-brackets-hanger-set/97208

initially i purchased nylon ones but the reviews seemed better on the metal ones. However that bracket seems different to all i've seen so i've also purchased 20 small brackets.

will just have to cover the pre cut holes with some sort of cap or cut the ikea one's. Thanks all

 

[Deleted member 174758]

However that bracket seems different to all i've seen so i've also purchased 20 small brackets.

Just as a point to note, that type of (claw) hanger will work with wall rail I referred to in my previous post. Worth bearing in mind if you can't get a decent fix with those wall plates

 

[ragsta]

Hey thanks thought so but good to confirm. That 2nd bracket with the screw holes and the 2 fins..what's that for? I have a hunch

 

[JohnD]

you seem to be skipping over the idea of the hanging rails, or have I misunderstood you?

They really are ideal.

BTW if the walls area bit crumbly, an easy and cheap solution is to clean out all the dust, make sure it is amply deep enough for your plasplug and screw, fill the hole with a gun adhesive such as no-more-nails or one of the much cheaper own brands, press the plasplug into it and smooth off with a wet finger (you can put a screw a couple of turns into the plasplug to use as a handle)

The next day you can drive in the screw, and the adhesive will transmit all the axial forces to the wall and hold the plasplug firmly with no turning or looseness.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Hey thanks thought so but good to confirm. That 2nd bracket with the screw holes and the 2 fins..what's that for? I have a hunch

I think it's so that you can "siamese" two cabinets onto a single hanger bracket. This will be easier to install and get right than single hangers but is still dependent on how good (or bad) the wall is beneath the plaster. I have been known to chop out sections of plasterboard and fix a softwood batten before now to get a decent solid fix (especially on flimsy stud walls), although I 'm wary of doing that whilst the client is in the house because they can get ever so upset at this act of "wanton vandalism". No pleasing some folk!