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The manufacturers of my new heat exchanger (fully pumped, indirect open-vented system) recommend setting my Potterton Suprima 50 to MAX, for optimum performance. This seems to be fine but I am convinced the correctly-wired pump does not overrun. On rare occasions the boiler will kettle (bang)...

To answer securespark's unusual response... I would probably have tried a combination of cable ties (or binding wire) & box tape (as it has better lateral strength than gaffa & is slippy) I like the other suggestions though...

I have to ask this question as I have not found the answer on this site or elsewhere. When pulling cable through buried conduit, how do you attach the new cable to that being replaced (or the nylon pull-through cord)?

Just to clarify the issue... The spur did lead to a dual gang socket, connecting to the ring at a single gang socket. I can only assume the high-spec cable was a safety measure, unexpected in an ex-GLC council flat. I would like to maintain those standards. Yes, all circuits are...

The cable run was a spur off a ring main to household accessories via sockets, independant of other flats. 1930s block in London, if that makes any difference to regs. Local electrical supplier says he can get me some but has pointed out the problems of tooling/fitting, which has been...

I have exposed MICC cable running at 110mm above floor level, around my flat, on top of what is a concrete 'skirting'. During renovation a section was removed (some 4m) & needs replacing. Am I right in assuming that this cable type MUST be used to comply with safety regulations? This...

Reset the stat to 50 degrees C & now both the flow & return at the cylinder are hot. Seems to have done the trick. Sorry to have been so cautious. My only concern now is that I have reconnected the CH. This runs fine till shut down then, for some reason the pump does not overrun (like it does...

Would speeding up the pump help or does that just create airbubbles (I do get air in my rads)? CH has not yet been reconnected to the system (ie. all rads locked off both ends).

The stat is fitted into the cylinder at the base. I was advised that it is cooler here than at the top of the tank, hence 35 degrees C. Pump running so I assume the stat is calling for heat (HW only, set on timer), unless this is to do with overrun through the bypass as the pump is wired to...

Have just installed an Albion Superduty CF45 hot water cylinder, complete with a Danfoss ITC100 immersion stat. The manufacturers recommended that particular probe stat & that it be set to 35 degrees C. Water is reaching hand hot temperature & improved when I reset at 45 degrees C...

I have heard of bathroom radiators being used as a safety bypass. Is it possible to bypass the primary (assuming open-vented system) through the towel rail, independent of the central heating. I am not a plumber. This is a suggestion/query.

I am soon to replace my corroded hot water cylinder (open-vented system) & would have to disconnect the primary HW circuit. On leaving the tank, the return pipe joins a bypass & then the return from the radiators, all on the same floor. Do I have to drain all my radiators to prevent backflow...

Just a word of warning from a non-plumber but someone who has made mistakes with cross-wiring stats.... MAKE SURE YOUR JUNCTION BOX IS PROTECTED BY A FUSED CONNECTION UNIT. Easier to replace the fuse than all the burnt out components!

Thanks. Have been told I need a STRONGBOY WALL SUPPORT to go with the acros. Lintels it is then... I won't be doing this myself & it will be checked by a Building Control Officer.

I need a doorway cutting through structural wall, however, access to the far side of the wall may be unavailable due to the prior construction of a block partition wall. Is it possible to safely support the wall from one side only, without the need for needles? Rather than a lintel, are...

So why not just use a reliable stopcock? Is this a cost thing or does it have to do with the ability to flow in both directions?

Would that be something like a Torbeck valve? Are these suitable for high pressure into a cold tank...I thought they were for toilet cisterns?

Have just replaced a corroded float valve, in my cold water tank, with a Brass Float Valve High Pressure PT1 from Plumbworld. Violent water hammer that does subside if I reduce pressure with the gate valve (defeating the object of the renewal as my tank needs to fill quickly). Searched...

Thanks for all the advice. The day has been postponed whilst I consider my options...

Conex or Peglers stopcocks seem very hard to get hold of. Been to 3 plumbers merchants this afternoon with the best offer being a Conex coupler! I take it the recommendation is because of their durability & not because it is a steel to copper connection?