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Many thanks ✌

Hi folks Just building some floor-to-ceiling wardrobes using 18mm MDF for the sides, shelves, base and top. Am affixing to the wall for security. Two questions... 1. What's an appropriate MDF thickness for the back panels of the wardrobes? 2. Is there a particular size batten to use to affix...

Cheers that's helpful. I want a ladder frame beneath the units, so I can have seamless skirting running around the room Inc the wardrobes (which will also mirror the seamless coving running around the room and at the top of the wardrobe, too). I'll forgo the pocket holes. Much simpler!

These were just small test pieces, so I could practice. I'm making a set of floor-to-ceiling wardrobes. Probably 18mm MDF (though reconsidering, based on the above info), placed on top of a ladder frame, and fixed to batons on the three walls. I'm buying the doors ready-made.

Really helpful. Thanks so much!

Hi folks. Just practicing with pocket holes (in preparation for making some cabinets for wardrobes). Using the Trend system. Two questions: 1. Why does my wood split (see picture)? Am I simply drilling too far in, is it the screws, wood itself, or set up that's causing the issue? 2. When I...

D'you mean use the wall as the 'back' of the wardrobe, essentially; with shelving or shelving units attached to it? Yes no reason why I can't do that. Just figured it would look more 'professional' with contained units.

West-facing external; doesn't get the sun, really.

Folks, Am building floor-to-ceiling wardrobes for the missus. Entirely enclosed units, with doors. Question. I'm planning on removing the rest of the skirting (as seen in the picture) and then filling gaps with a little expandable foam. The units will be placed in front of this, entirely...

Thanks for your reply. Yeah they're switched on at the wall; regular double switch. I'll try and trace them. The third picture is the cable to connect to the TV aerial, coming out of the wall

Currently redecorating. We don't need the two light fittings or TV cable, currently coming out of the walls. W the best way to make them safe and hide them away, so the wall is flat with nothing protruding? Thanks in advance

Perfect, thanks :)

Not noticed the smell (it's a tiny tiny patch), but having read your reply and googled it, I think you're right. I think it is pre-40's Thanks; great info!

I stripped this wall, and I'm now sanding it. But what is this green gunk that is sticking to my sander? Sticks to my fingers to, when I touch it (although washes off)? Thanks in advance

Thanks, I'll try removing the cover and see what I can find. I can't reach the head of the screw directly underneath the unit, because it is against the frame of the door..

Thanks again for this. Quick update: replacement brought and fitted. Everything now working ok! :)

Hi all This room sensor is connected to the wall above the door frame; but I can't figure out how you remove it. I'm painting and light plastering the room, and need to get behind the sensor to make a good job of it. There is a little screw (pictured), but I have no idea how you get to it...

Many many thanks. Most of the old flimsy trv's are too broke or the little metal rad valves are too stiff, to turn them off. I'll deal with a hot house, until I get a replacement actuator head!

Thanks, this is super helpful! One issue: we've got underfloor heating in one room - is there an equivalent of a trv for that? Unsure how I'd turn it off... Oh, and should I turn the trv's on both sides of rad down?

CH thermostat on boiler turned up Room thermostat turned up CH on at the programmer And yes, pipes either side of the HW valve are hot to the touch! Should I try the hot water yet?