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Doesn't seem to spread the load very well. If it were me I would want the steel to go lower and cross more supports than just the party wall....

Can't you cut it up into smaller pieces?

I have no experience with epoxy mortar but personally I wouldn't go to all the bother. Use a good exterior filler like Tetrion and a quality masonry paint after it has dried.

Try it! Stack some bricks up inside the fireplace to where you think the fire throat would come and then cut a square of plasterboard larger than your fireplace opening, cut a hole in that to replicate the throat of the fire and wedge it up against the front of the chimney breast. Hey presto -...

Give it a hard push. If it falls over it was too weak and you will need to rebuild it anyway, if it stays up it's probably strong enough for a gate.

It's only back-filled to roughly the same height as the throat of the fire (which is usually 2/3 of the way up); a little higher if anything so you can slope it down so ash etc. rolls back into fireplace. Not to the full height of the fireplace.

Hot air rises? It would be best if both fans came on at the same time anyway though. Could they not have gone through the wall in the picture? Two core-drilled outlets with grilles would have been cheaper than that (looks like) 150mm tee, pipe and the lead slate on the roof to weather it...

Have a word with your local 'auto body repair shop' (as the yanks would say) - they spray plastic mouldings on cars that flex and don't crack.

An ordinary 3/4" lockshield valve will most likely have tails that fit the existing valves. If you have just had your bathroom redone (albeit 'a few months ago') why not use a new radiator? That one is chipped and is going rusty already. It looks like it's been stood outside for the last 'few...

I wouldn't have though so as it's only the bottom half or so which is back filled and there is a big hole (for the smoke to go up) which will let any sound through. Filling the chimney with insulation and boarding up the opening may help (not the ventilation though). Put your stereo speakers...

I wouldn't have though so as it's only the bottom half or so which is back filled and there is a big hole (for the smoke to go up) which will let any sound through. Filling the chimney with insulation and boarding up the opening may help (not the ventilation though). Put your stereo speakers in...

take the bricks out with a hammer and chisel and support it with a lintel if there is not one there already

You could put a thermostatic blending valve on a normal mixer?

The safe working loads are different. CU's are available in more lengths than the CUB's which are slightly thinner thus take less load.

If it's just overboarding seems quite high but you are in London (if that makes a difference). Rooms are quite small so should only take 2 men 1/2 a day to board both and a good plasterer a day to skim both ceilings. So say 16 hours @ whatever rate it is 'up there'! Materials - 9 sheets plbrd...

Would it not be easier to adapt the cupboard :roll:

I would have used a 15mm equal tee :wink:

An easy way would be to install a back to wall pan and hidden cistern therefore boxing in all unsightly pipe work. Alternatively just box in the pipe work on show?

:lol:

Plant some leylandii on your land up the boundary and keep your side trimmed back. If he asks you to cut his side tell him to f off :lol: