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0039 05:17:35 24/02/2016 Alarm . . Zone 004 Guard Alarm - KITCHEN DOOR 0040 05:17:36 24/02/2016 Not Reported . B Bell Active 0041 05:21:20 24/02/2016 Restore . . Zone 004 Guard Restore - KITCHEN DOOR 0042 05:28:49 24/02/2016 Not Reported A B System Access by User 01 0043 05:28:49 24/02/2016 Open...

:) Yes but did nice job on identical other door... Was two guys, perhaps one not so good.

Should i post event log here? That zone covers the two back doors so would rather not deactivate.

Installer actually left one of those connecters when he left. Are they easy to install?

Thanks. I have just had a better look at the contacts at the door causing the alarm and it seems like a real butcher job in comparison to other contacts (same installer). The contact has been attached to the door with a screw and it has cracked because there is was screwed into an uneven spot...

Some advice please: When on full arm you hear the exit and entry tones. How can i set this for part arm? The kids sometimes go down at night and forget the alarm is active and the first they work out the alarm was on is when the siren goes off and woken the neighbors.. On PIR's I understand...

I believe the switch was a cheap one, but it is interesting now you mention why didn't the fuse blow if the appliances were pulling over 13amps?

Seems easiest option now is to use the washing machine off the spur and the dryer off the extension cable to other socket.

sorry correct

The temp one I am using is 1.5 extention wire and external - it is plugged into a socket not wired in. It is one of those 4 socket extention wires. The one the electrician installed is 2.5mm and in insulated stud wall.

Thanks. This is what I have had done but was not using yet... Is there any way I can monitor whether it is overloaded/overheating? Will the sockets melt/blacken if there is a problem? Will the appliance cables become hot? OR is my first warning a fire? In the interim I have been using a short...

Thanks for all info from yourself and the others. Problem is that most is actually already done. During a house rewire (fully certified) the electrician forgot to put the socket for washing machine/dryer in utility room so he wired a fused spur to double socket. This stopped working after a...

SO is it safe to run the washing machine and dryer from the spur double socket? Cable goes through insulated stud wall. CAn it cause a fire or will the fuse cut it out if there is a problem?

For instance in this dryer: Hotpoint TVFS83CGP Vented Tumble Dryer. What is the wattage? I can find wattage 583 KW/H anum and 4.97 kw/H per cycle. http://www.johnlewis.com/hotpoint-tvfs83cgp-vented-tumble-dryer-8kg-load-c-energy-rating-white/p1609310 When working out wattage for cable...

The potential is for 4.5k. How many amps is that?

Hi, what is the safe wattage capacity on a 2.5mm cable as extension (1.5m) off a ring? (I believe this is called a spur?) Is it enough to power a double socket for wash machine and dryer?

Thanks alot. So is this definitive or AIUI?

If I need to go through the scheme after 30 days, would they accept any non-safety related defense for the electrician on why he is refusing to notify? e.g what if the contractor still owes him money?

UPDATE: The electrician has now provided the Domestic Electrical Installation Certificate but I have checked and he hasn't yet notified to his scheme. I hope the notification is following and all is smooth sailing from here, but just to be ready for anything else; can they...

This didn't work. Anything I should check?