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It turned out that the key was unlocking the door ok, but part of the handle/latch mechanism had broken inside, preventing the handle from working. I got someone out to fix it. They were able to force the handle down to open the door & then replace the mechanism. If I had known then what I know...

I am currently on cable switching back to Openreach network. If I install an NTE5C master socket myself (where i want it) will Openreach connect it for me instead of just replacing the face plate on existing NTE5A BT master?

The reason I was thinking of using CAT5E cable is because it is recommended on-line & I already have some. I will use CW1308 if I can get it. Thanks Again.

CW 1308 as far as I can tell is for ADSL, but CAT5E is better for VDSL because of its higher bandwidth. I will be using VDSL FTTC.

My broadband Hub is in a room the other side of a wall to where my master socket is. I want to drill a small hole through the wall & make my own broadband cable. It only needs to be about 2 meters long. On-line there are suggestions that the flat untwisted broadband cable supplied with the hub...

Do I need Rj11 or Rj45 to connect to the hub?

I intend to connect 4 of the 8 wires to the RJ11. Only the 2 inner pins on RJ11 will carry data. I wish to hard wire the other end to my master socket data connections A & B. Can anyone tell me what colour wires I should use where please.

I want to make my own broadband cable, instead of using the one supplied by my ISP. I want to use CAT5E cable terminated with RJ11. Should this be wired straight through or crossover?

I have a U.P.V.C door that will not open. It has a Corbin cylinder lock barrel with multipoint locking. The key will turn to lock and unlock positions, both inside and outside, but the door handle will not go down to open the door. I have removed the door handle, but can not remove the lock...

I have now fitted a VPRO Varilight dimmer switch & the original LED'S work perfectly with no flicker or buzz. It seems from my experience that the Retrotouch dimmer switch was not fit for purpose.

This is a picture of the LED I purchased from Amazon on 12/11/2017.

Are you suggesting that the LED's I bought on Amazon (clearly marked as dimmable) are not dimmable? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01LQRJ4Y8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am using a Retrotouch LED dimmer switch 07249 3-200w with a single 10w GLS B22 A60 LED from Long Life Lamp Company. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01LQRJ4Y8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The dimmer module failed after 12 months & has been replaced, but has now failed again...

We have made up our minds that we do not want down lights, mainly because once installed there is no going back. Instead we are going for LED track lighting. 8 in total 4 at each end. I have found some 120 degree 8W or 10W LED's on-line and wonder if they will be suitable????

According to universal-lighting.co.uk Ambient lighting using down lights should be between 1.6m to 2m apart & 0.8m to 1m from the walls. Using the 0.8m & 1.6m I can only get 8 lamps into my kitchen (5675mm X 3370mm). So I have no idea how or why I should need 12 lamps?

Thank you all but as I suspected this has not helped much as there is so much conflicting information out there. Seems I will have to trust the electrician's plan, although I now wonder if down lights our what we need?

Thank you all for your replies. Yes I did ask the electrician to install down lights as we like them. Am I correct in thinking that a 36W fluorescent tube produces 2160 lumen’s & 6 X 5W LED's produce 2490 lumen's using only 30W? If so would this work for me?

I am having new lighting installed in my kitchen. The kitchen is 3370mm X 5675mm. I currently have a 36W fluorescent tube at one end which gives adequate light. My electrician wants to install 12 x 10W LED down lights, 6 at each end. This seems a lot to me. I was hoping to keep to 36W at one end...

Thank you all for your help. Yes I thought it sounded a ridiculous thing to try to do. I think we will get 38mm solid timber from Wickes, as Wren kitchens can not supply 38mm solid timber.

I am having a new kitchen installed. We want to use 38mm laminate except for around a Belfast sink. Our kitchen supplier suggests using 40mm solid wood around the sink and to sand down the timber to the same depth as the laminate. Is this even possible and how could this be done?