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That would be needed if I hadn't already got the sticks out. I included an "after" picture in the original post. I also mentioned we have a cowl now - the sweep fitted it. Perhaps you just skimmed my original post? I will fit a CO detector too, the gas-safe eng also recommended I do that. One...

Thanks. I agree the cowl removes the main problem. If he sweeps it again in a year or two, I suppose more stuff could come down (cobwebs etc) which could collect there. The idea of backfilling is to avoid that. Had a gas-safe eng out to service the fireplace and give us his opinion. He agreed...

We have a gas fireplace as shown. Recently got the chimney swept (there was a lot of sticks and birds-nest up there). Got a cowl fitted to stop them coming back. The sweep said it wasn't right that we had a void at the back of the fireplace (which was also full of sticks). A lot of awkward...

Thought I'd write this up, for the benefit of others with similar symptoms. Miele engineer visited. The pressure switch in the base of the machine was tested and found to be working OK. Tide-mark in the switch chamber indicated machine was not filling fully. A further clue was in the water...

We've got an outside halogen security light that no longer works and is 5 yrs+ old. I think it's a 300W but won't know for sure until I borrow a ladder and have a look. I've got one of these to replace it: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2124157.pdf It's a sealed unit, with a L / N / E...

Hi, We have a similar fault to that described elsewhere. Checked inlet and drain hoses, and the sump area. Impeller under the non-return valve looks clean and turns with the expected quarter-turn magnetic lump. Impeller just visible in the slot at the back also turns freely and looks clean...

Thanks. Initially I wanted to do nothing irreversible. But I was wondering about, maybe in a few months' time taking some length off the copper pipes so that the hose loops go (re-doing it with new olives).

Happy to oblige with a picture. The space is pretty tight where the pump is fitted, this shows the two outlet hoses. The basic principle was "stop the leak, and get the HW back on". I put the cable ties (loosely) around the front one to help keep the entry/exit points to the couplings straight...

Salamander CT50, professionally fitted and wired in March 2011. Has worked fine since then. Noticed lots of water coming out (of the smoke alarm, in the downstairs hall!). Tracked it down to the flexible (anti-vibration) hoses. In particular it was the push-fit end onto 15mm copper pipe that...

Hi, it was the mid-position valve actuator. Replacement fitted, system correctly goes through all four states.

Thanks for your persistence. I did already remove the actuator and move the valve spindle. Yep, it's only about 20 degrees of rotation, I'd say it was easy to move just with fingers. Also the valve itself is working - I can change it from A, to both, to B as witnessed by the temperature of the...

Thanks D_Hailsham, however there is live voltage on the grey wire (as per my quoted reply), when it's sitting in mid-position, cylinder is SAT and CH is Called. I am not a trained CH engineer but I can follow schematics and the posts here...

Maybe .. is there a convention to follow there, or are you thinking full-on Dymo name labels?

Some pictures of wiring centre internals

1. Yes there is. It's a short link inside the wiring centre. 2. Yes the system runs under that condition. Voltage is present at the grey wire in the wiring centre, whether the cyl stat is set high (call) or low (sat). Part of the wiring centre detail: 16: CYL SAT .. two black wires going to...

Will investigate 1 & 2. 3. I was mistaken on - I corrected my post perhaps after you saw it. I meant to say grey + white.

I've had more of a look this morning. The motorised valve is an EPH Detach B322D. This was a replacement, fitted July 2013. Apparently has a 5-year guarantee. The wiring in the wiring centre is rather untidy, but the correct signals seem to be present on the grey, white feeds according to...