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How big are the holes, are they blackstained? check for any moisture (which makes the timber more favorable), and try see if there is any bore dust in the holes. You can always squirt preservative into the holes and around the timber, and also use a wax crayon to fill the holes (so that if...

Brad nails have a very small head, and i have seen some instances where the boards just pull over the head, though normally this is an issue where there are high wind loads (tall or coastal buildings), or where undue expansion pushes them about. If we are talking a typical domestic 2 story...

If you are having UF heating, glue and screw the floor panels down, otherwise when the timber shrinks you could end up with a very squeaky floor. Once the floor and ceiling is on, then the noggins do become largely redundent except for the ones around the perimiter of a room.

it is best to to float the floor or use adhesive (it is not recomended to nail into chipboard). Providing the chipboard is sufficently thick then there shouldnt be an issue running the boards with the joists. You can use solid timber, but engineered boards are a better option when floating...

If you properly apply a pigmented (coloured) stain, you should reasonably expect 4 years or so between maintenence. Try a sikkens or ronseal cladding stain. It's only clear finishes that need yearly maintenence.

The treatment actually makes it softer and lighter, but i have seen beech and oak samples of thermowood recently, and that may be what you looked at. The greying affect you see when timber weathers are bleached surface fibres, and if you apply a finish to weathered timber, it will fail...

It basicly is a softwood/pine, so paints & stains the same, looks the same (though brown due to the heat treatment and a little smelly). The treatment makes it durable, and makes it stable, and the process means that it will be very unlikely to arrive on site "wet", and so excess shrinking...

Pretty much does what it says on the tin.

You're question is abit much for a DIY forum, get yourself some span tables which have trimmer joists info in them, or talk to a structural engineer.

It would cause mould growth externally, but internally shouldnt be a problem, though a little "different".

What is the moisture content? Timber will go from around 10-12% in a dry period, to 20-22% in a wet period, but will spend most of its time in between that (the surface may go up to 25% directly after wetting). A 4% moisture change will give you a 1% dimension change approx. If you get...

Get a moisture meter if you want to do it properly. 2mm within the tounge and groove, providing the tounge is 8mm, should be fine. If the tounge is smaller than that, then there could be a risk of them disengating in dry weather.

How is the chipboard fixed down, or is it floated, if it is floated use a foam floor underlay. Solid boards that wide should be nailed, chipboard is rather weak for holding nails, so increase the fixing centres to 200mm (I'm slightly guessing here). Make sure the boards are the right...

Possibly caused by moisture from the new concrete floor? Is the concrete floor level? If so then make sure the concrete is dry (approx 1mm per day to dry), then glue the oak down to the screed. I assume it is an engineered oak floor if it is 200mn wide, solid flooring will need nailing...

Use a varnish if you like lots of maintenence

It's fairly normal and due to drying Offhand I think the fencing standard says something like "checks not to exceed more than 1/2 the depth", but no limit on their number. If you want timber not to split and check so much, try get the timber pith free (not as easy) , and get a small movement...

Are you use the splits are caused by the load, as it's quite common for timber to split as it dries, which is normally nothing much to worry about.

! 10-15mm expansion gaps should be left around the perimeter of the floor. Check the moisture content of the boards (seasoned to what?). If they are air dried (16%+)then butt them up, if they are properly kiln dried to 10% then leave a small 1/2mm gap between boards (on top of the 10-15mm...

Oil is the way to go, any film forming finish will crack as the beam dries. But yea, green oak stuck inside could split and shrink by about 6%, get air dried.

General advice, is to eliminate source of moisture (as you have), and promote rapid drying during remedial work, though most people don’t bother with this part, but just sticking a few fans up there will help move the air a little more. Rotted wood should be removed, and replacement timber...