Search results

Hi all. I have a batten lamp holder in the under stairs cupboard that has broken, so I went to replace it but have a question about the wiring of the existing fitting. Hopefully someone can help. This is the set-up; the lampholder is plugged into a socket with a regular three pin plug. There...

Just to finish off this thread in case anyone else comes up against the same problem. I had a heating engineer to come in and have a look at it, and after he looked over all the wiring and checked the room stat and cylinder stat, he declared it to all be wired up and working fine. However...

Thanks Terry, I came to the same conclusion this morning so I have someone coming out to me tomorrow morning. On the phone he said it sounds like it would be two separate issues too, so I'm glad you're both in agreement there. I'm a keen DIYer and always looking to expand my knowledge, but I...

Hi Terry. The boiler is in the kitchen, directly below the hot water cylinder that is in the airing cupboard (in the bathroom) upstairs.

HELP! After replacing the three way valve, it seems as though I am back to square one. I enjoyed fully-functioning CH and HW for a whole evening last night, but waking up this morning I found that the original problem is still there. Here are my current symptoms: 1) When the boiler (Main...

I've been going around re-bleeding then topping up, and for the time being it seems to have done the trick. The pump is back to its normal sound levels, and the fault indicator is no longer showing. I'll keep on top of any more air on the system over the next few days and hopefully that should...

Sorry, me again! I drained the system - brilliant! Changed over the three-way valve - wonderful! Refilled the system; no leaks - fabulous! Bled all the rads from bottom to top, refilled to 1bar, turned on the boiler and tested it with different CH and HW functions selected; all working fine -...

Brilliant, thanks a lot for your time Terry. I will give that a go.

Yes, thats correct. There are two pressure guages The system is completely cold, and it's showing as 0.5bar on the boiler guage and pretty much zero on the one on the filling loop. Very strange. Either way it's going to need a top-up. In terms of draining it down to replace the valve (which is...

Ah, ok. That kind of makes sense. The boiler is a Main System 18 HE. I've also traced back the five pipes that run from the loft to the airing cupboard, and from left to right they are: 1) Hot water to pumped shower processor box in loft 2) Even though it's got a red tap and "H" written on...

Thanks Terry, I've tried to show as much as possible. This is the offending Honeywell valve that needs to be replaced. 20171230_094930 by Tykey posted 30 Dec 2017 at 10:17 AM 20171230_094936 by Tykey posted 30 Dec 2017 at 10:17 AM This is the top of the tank, where you can see the pressure...

Thanks. I have a new ball assembly that I will change over, but just need to drain down the system first. Next question, I thought so had a gravity-fed system (i.e. I have a tank in the loft) but I also have a pressure valve at the top of the hot water cylinder, with a braided pipe and a valve...

Ok, so I removed the head from the unit, and the spindle is pretty stiff. Applied some lubricant, but it can still only be turned using pliers and not by hand. Also, I fitted a new head to test it (no power connected yet) and when I take it off the manual position it doesn't spring back to auto...

Indeed, wrong choice of word. I will turn it slightly, not rotate it fully!

Thanks. It's definitely got two retaining screws, so presumably that means I won't be getting wet! I'll take it apart in the morning and see if I can rotate it manually and go from there. Cheers.

Replaced the motor this afternoon, and no dice. Any idea if there's a way to be sure that replacing the whole head will solve the problem? As in rule out the valve itself as the problem? Just don't want to do that and then find I need a new valve anyway so could've just bought the whole thing.

Thanks. That will be my first point of call then, and then if that doesn't work, I guess I'll move up the chain and replace the actuator. Looks like the motor is about a £12 replacement, so fingers crossed that's what it needs.

Hi all, I'm looking for a bit of help. I have an issue where my boiler is not turning off even when the programmer has CH and HW set to off. Alongside this, if I have HW on, then some of the radiators upstairs start to heat up. This leads me to believe that the Honeywell 3 port motorised valve...

Thanks for the advice. I think considering the price difference isn't all that much I'll go with the middle option and look at the 3bar one.

Just to follow up on this, the engineer came out to look at the oven and turns out it was a relay on the PCB that had failed, which meant that the element wasn't switching off. A new PCB and hey presto, one working oven. Thanks to all for the advice.