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Just reread your post, you need ventilation above the insulation, so unlikely that your gap is for ventilation. Probably it's because GU10 bulbs get very hot, the non-LED ones anyway.

No, I've no idea what the gap is, though that sounds unlikely. I was just pointing out the potential consequences of just stuffing as much insulation as possible into an unventilated cold roof space.

The more you put in the colder the roof space will be, the more likely you are to get condensation. 300mm is in the territory for needing proper consideration of cross ventilation and given the history of the room in most cases there won't be any ventilation of the roof space at all. If you...

Cool, I wasn't sure if you'd just done it because you wanted to. I have it vaguely on my list to get all my power tools into some similar space.

That's really cool, though they're not really in the way on the wall are they?

I have a fair bit of twin-spur and conti-board shelves in my workshop. I use that for storing my timber. If you don't need storage for long stuff, then it's worth looking at B&Qs cheap kitchen wall units too. I have some of these too, they're cheap, easy to hang and reasonably strong. You...

Right, used the Engineer Code instead of mine and I'm in.

Setup the App, assigned sensors to rooms and now it's telling me "Access to this system is currently disabled". Urrrgh. Any clues?

I had a look on Wintex again and changed one of the settings to use COM2 rather than being unset and that seems to have sorted it, I'm in now, just setting the App up now.

Firmware is 5.02 or whatever the latest is, Wintex is V7

I've been working through upgrading Firmware and setting up a SmartCom module for my Premier Elite 48 Panel and could do with a hand! I followed the instructions exactly and got as far as turning on SmartCom at the Keypad and it trying to dial for a 6 digit code so I can start connecting things...

I actually thought the first ones look OK, I wouldn't use the second as the heads are too small - they're some sort of hidden screw that would be for a finished floor rather than chipboard aren't they? Wont that design allow for the smooth shaft to remove jacking and then the final threaded bit...

I have a Premier Elite 48, so my advice may not work unless you change panels, but can you add a thingthing that'll let you use Texecom Connect. If you can you'll be able to monitor and reset the alarm remotely (I think, my box just arrived today so isn't setup yet). No idea how limited the...

Reissers's chipboard screws are really good, but they're not those ones. The Reisser Cutters are designed to cut their own pilot and their own countersink, you just bang them in with a driver, they're ace. The reason for the smooth shank is so that if you don't hold the boards down when you...

Egger recommend you glue the boards to the joists with their gap filling adhesive too to take up any imperfections in the joist levels to minimise squeaks. But that might just be a ploy to get more money from you.

Yes, if you add those numbers up they're similar, but the OP has only submitted a Building Notice, so knock £406 off for the planning permission and Full Plans. Then bear in mind my charges relate to two projects, both of which will involve a lot more inspection than what the OP is proposing...

In terms of things you can do, I would be inclined to say to the builder that there is an issue, but that you're prepared to mitigate the issue such that you won't take any action now. If enforcement action occurs in the next 4 years you will expect them to pay the costs associated with a...

Might be easier to just move to a better Local Authority, yours sounds hopeless. I paid £206 for a planning application then £200 for a Full Plans BUilding Control application for a loft conversion and decent sized extension. Then £570 for all the inspections to go with that. Your costs are...

No point insulating it if you're not heating it anyway. Particularly if you're using it as a gym as it'll likely need ventilating anyway if you're exercising in there.

Thanks, I assumed the PIR was just a normal board with a plasterboard glued on. I had clocked that it was very expensive though! I wasn't looking forward to carrying the boards up into my loft anyway, so if I use separate plasterboard that will be a lot easier!