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No, they are just attached to the floor in order to support the suspended floorboards. Guess that might mean they are technically not joists.

thanks. Would you consider fitting a durcon to avoid the traps getting emptied? And inspection caps? Was thinking about teeing in 1 of each in the blue 2" run that runs down the side of the internal wall in the utility room - it's not fantastically accessible but better than nothing...

Just to follow up: I fitted an Icon15 in the end and it's fine. There's a bit of a delay before the shutter starts opening (30 seconds or so) - but that's normal according to instructions. It isn't particularly noisy at all. Thanks again for help.

The wood frame you can see in the picture is just a temporary construction so I can board up the back of the house while we're waiting for the doors. Here's a wider shot: Does that make sense?

We've moved the kitchen from the back of the house to the front and were planning to use the gulley drain outside the front window for foul water from two sinks, a washing machine and a dishwasher. (The second sink and washing machine are in an adjacent utility room). We're on a combined...

Really sorry noseall - dI on't understand what you're saying. 1 The joists you can see in the picture will have to be extended to support further boards 2 The temporary frame/door is just in place while the otehrs are made. 3 The actual frame of the doors being made will rest on the bricks...

Thanks for answering. Indeed, you're right - my question was more cosmetic - and seeing if anyone else had any experience with a similar situation. It is unavoidable - the side-effect of having an almost flush threshold on to the back patio - essentially the threshold for a 4m run of doors...

Yes, that's what I intended to do - but do you still concur that a timber slither is good enough for the gap you can see?

Thanks for this. It's a suspended floor inside so I don't think doing anything with screed is a possibility And wow - that seems like a lot of work in comparison to just putting a piece of timber in there... am I getting the wrong end of the stick? We've opened up so here's what it looks...

Thanks for this. WHen you say 'fill open cavity with either blockwork' - do you mean vertical cavity? And what is 'blockwork'? Scuse dumb questions.

After a bit of a search I've come across two opinions: 1) Cavity closers should be fitted into the bottom, between the two skins 2) The brick base should be of solid wall construction at the base, rather than cavity... 1) would be easier if it's acceptable - though I'm concerned that the...

I'd like to fit folding sliding doors at the back of our house. Currently the wall construction is cavity so opening up will undoubtedly reveal two skins of bricks with a gap in the middle. How would people advise finishing the bottom of the brickwork to support the doors? So far I'm...

Hi, Laying a linear drainage channel close to some patio doors - about 4m in length. Tossing up between the relative merits of Hepworth, Flodrain, and Clarke. Probably all of a muchness. But ideally I want something that: 1) is domestic - no holes that are going to trap heels etc. 2)...

A good suggestion HUgh - thanks - and having missed notification of a thread addition means I might have missed it. Well, here's an update: tried to get a camera down it and yes, it's too tight. Stuck a camera up an adjacent-ish manhole which starts before this and followed that down to...

I can't really get a CCTV thing together myself and hire won't be much cheaper. I'll let you know the outcome. Thanks for your support, Tony. May be in touch soon on a boiler servicing issue if you're willing ...