Footings at bottom of folding sliding doors

[fathertobe]

I'd like to fit folding sliding doors at the back of our house. Currently the wall construction is cavity so opening up will undoubtedly reveal two skins of bricks with a gap in the middle.

How would people advise finishing the bottom of the brickwork to support the doors?

So far I'm planning to:
1 run a dpc along the top of whatever finish and lip it in to join the existing dpc
2 install a linear drainage channel in front of the threshold to drain off rainwater.
3 install cavity closers at the sides of the opening

But I'm not sure how the two skins should be adapted for the doors.

Appreciate the help.

 

[fathertobe]

After a bit of a search I've come across two opinions:
1) Cavity closers should be fitted into the bottom, between the two skins
2) The brick base should be of solid wall construction at the base, rather than cavity...

1) would be easier if it's acceptable - though I'm concerned that the back of the doors won't have much brick to rest on - on the internal skin.

Please - any thoughts? My builder is being a bit clueless here - and I'm having to twist his arm to fit cavity closers in the first place...

Very grateful.

 

[fastneattrowel]

I'd like to fit folding sliding doors at the back of our house. Currently the wall construction is cavity so opening up will undoubtedly reveal two skins of bricks with a gap in the middle.

How would people advise finishing the bottom of the brickwork to support the doors?

So far I'm planning to:
1 run a dpc along the top of whatever finish and lip it in to join the existing dpc
2 install a linear drainage channel in front of the threshold to drain off rainwater.
3 install cavity closers at the sides of the opening

But I'm not sure how the two skins should be adapted for the doors.

Appreciate the help.

cut out the opening down to the damp course,your sliding folding doors should have a sill, put the sill in put your doors on top of the sill, screw the sides of frame to outer skin brickwork ,then fill open cavity with either block work using vertical 150mm dpc or a cavity closer, the gap left open down the bottom can be bridged using a wooden sill or what ever takes your fancy ,and bobs your uncle ps dont forget the lintel

 

[fathertobe]

Thanks for this.

WHen you say 'fill open cavity with either blockwork' - do you mean vertical cavity? And what is 'blockwork'?

Scuse dumb questions.

 

[noseall]

The side reveals could either be filled with a proprietary cav' closer or bricked up with aerated block slithers, combined with a vertical dpc.

At the floor detail, the inner course of bricks/blocks should be removed to below floor level and a 'tray' consisting of 1200gauge dpm laid in the trough and made good with flooring screed or trowelled concrete tight against the door sill or threshold.......or do as fnt says and fix a timber threshold strip to suit the gap.

 

[fathertobe]

Thanks for this. It's a suspended floor inside so I don't think doing anything with screed is a possibility And wow - that seems like a lot of work in comparison to just putting a piece of timber in there... am I getting the wrong end of the stick?


We've opened up so here's what it looks like:

Untitled

• fathertobe
• 26 May 2009
• 1

[/img]

Any thoughts now?

Appreciate the help.

 

[noseall]

The floor boarding can be made good right up to the door sill. This would be in place of my previous suggestion when i thought you had a solid concrete floor.

 

[fathertobe]

Yes, that's what I intended to do - but do you still concur that a timber slither is good enough for the gap you can see?

 

[noseall]

If the joists rest on the internal wall visible then they should be resting on the full width of the brick. This should then afford you some decent fixing points.

If there are excessive gaps at the ends then you can make some board end catchers by fixing a timber bearer to the underside of the nearest floorboards allowing the bearer to stick past beyond the last floor board. This bearer can be made from a piece of floorboard. You fix it by screwing through the existing boards. Getting the first screw in is the trickiest.

 

[fathertobe]

Really sorry noseall - dI on't understand what you're saying.

1 The joists you can see in the picture will have to be extended to support further boards
2 The temporary frame/door is just in place while the otehrs are made.
3 The actual frame of the doors being made will rest on the bricks and span the front course, the gap and a bit of the second course.

I'll then have to run the floorboarding up to frame from the inside.

 

[fastneattrowel]

Thanks for this. It's a suspended floor inside so I don't think doing anything with screed is a possibility And wow - that seems like a lot of work in comparison to just putting a piece of timber in there... am I getting the wrong end of the stick?


We've opened up so here's what it looks like:

Untitled

• fathertobe
• 26 May 2009
• 1

[/img]

Any thoughts now?

Appreciate the help.

hi father,cant really make head or tail of that picture,looks as if you got a door hanging on the inner course,surely not, good luck m8 il keep quite on this one

 

[Shytalkz]

You, quiet....?

 

[fastneattrowel]

You, quiet....?

leave that one to noseall

 

[fathertobe]

The wood frame you can see in the picture is just a temporary construction so I can board up the back of the house while we're waiting for the doors.

Here's a wider shot:

Untitled

• fathertobe
• 27 May 2009
• 1

Does that make sense?

 

[noseall]

The joists you can see in the picture will have to be extended to support further boards

Do they not rest on the internal wall then?