Search results

could be flame rectification probe or lead. i would pull lead of board end and probe and check to see have you got continuity through it.

thats not what i would call logical fault finding! haha. what is happening then? is boiler trying to fire up and failing? are external controls calling? room stat cylinder stat? what type of system do you have etc.

i might be able to help you. the leds speed of flashing is part of diagnostics. what are they doing? for example from left to right the lights at bottom are 1 to 4. one of these will flash in conjuction with red fault light. so red fault light flashes every 2 secs with diag led 1 flow overheat...

its a bit of a pain but you see the end of the valve where that square shape is situated. use a rad key to undo this, anti clockwise to open it and stick a garden hose on it immediatly and this will drain the system. if you just want to drain a single rad just turn both valves of either side of...

yep. thats how i'd roll.

why on earth do you want to drain then fill your system? do you enjoy hassle?

sounds like your heating tank has run dry. go in your loft you will see a small tank push the ball valve down this will free it off and wil fill system job done.

I did say isolate water supply to the valve!! its hard to tell you what to do without seeing it. but if its the one i think your on about you unscrew the plastic knurled part from upstanding part exposing the diaphragm.

youv'e lost me now. but that valve you had off is the head of the motorised valve. that valve when a call is intiatiated send power down to the boiler to fire up, so if that valve isnt motoring over then it is knackered and needs replacing.

check simple things like is there enough pressure in system. it could be a number of other things though such as pump is knackered or o/heat stat is faulty. But for goodness sake do not play with this boiler unless you are corgi and seriously ofey with this boiler. this boiler has killed a...

this would appear to be your heating motorised valve. this is most likely your problem. with this off the vlavle like how you have it at the minute turn the clock on to heating and see if the valve moves over to open.

has it got legs are are you laying it flat to the floor?

this 'white box' is sitting on a valve with three pipes going to it?

I think your on a hiding to nothing with it. it is very poor wormanship. think he needs telling what a pipe clip is for a start. But the problem you have got is when you get corgi involved they will make him bring safety related issues up to standard but the crap piping to rads they wont do...

your boiler is a conventional boiler or heat only what ever you want to call it. now it depends how the system is designed but in you airing cupboard you will have either 1 or two motorised valves. go have a look and tell me what youve got.

put the motorised valve across onto manual. if boiler doesn't fire up and it is the older apollo then it cud be a problem with the gas valve i.e itisn't opening.

yep sounds like ball valve is letting by. if the ball is the type with the long arm and float on the end of it you can isolate the water supply to the valve unscrew the knurled section that holds the armto the upstanding part of the valve and remove the rubber diaphragm and just replace this.

have the rads go trvs on them?

To be honest with you if your thinking of going down the vaillant route think about getting a glowworm it is basicaly a vaillant but cheaper. what i would say is gloworms and vaillants are better now they have overcome some of the issues they had when they first came out. such as the rubber...

If your saying your boiler isnt firing up on heating then it could be a motorised valve issue. if you find your heating valve put it across onto manual and see if the boiler fires up then.