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Convention is to place the "nice looking side" toward the neighbour, but who is to say what the nice looking side is if you are doing panels with posts between. I am going to be building a close board run of fencing and will place all the posts and rails my side, but this means I will be able...

i was thinking of running perspex along the top above the doorway and walls as id like to keep all wall space for storage Would this perspex not make insulating the rest of the building a waste of time, or are you planning on trying to insulate this aspect as well? Just a thought...

A gas service pipe should normally be laid with a minimum depth of cover of 375 mm in private ground and 450 mm in footpaths and highways. This is from the HSE guidance on gas mains, please be aware this is guidance and not a requirement... the pipe may be shallower or deeper, all depends...

I've done some work in concrete, ballast is approx £32 for a bulk bag (850-900kg) and the bags of cement (25kg) were around £3.80 a bag. If you google concrete mix calculator, you can find some online tools to help you do the sums as well. I found wickes to be expensive for the total...

Yes, those but at 90 degrees to the run of the fence. I'll try and sketch something out later and add it here so you can see what I mean.

Further to the 2x2 batton in the slotted concrete post It has been suggested that I could use a multi hole concrete post, and bolt the rails through the hole, by using a halving joint, this way I would have a strong fence, that would only require minor changes to the height of the posts of...

In terms of fall, you just need to ensure that the pipe will be sloping in the correct direction along the length of the pipe. this will ensure the pipe will empty and the water will flow away from the surface. A typical fall of 1 in 100 should be sufficient as a minimum, so you are looking...

I was concerned that fence post is usually 4x4 for a large fence, and therefore the 2x2 batton would be put under too much strain and would break free from the concrete post... But from what you have said, you believe this will be sufficient. It may well be time for me to do some shopping...

I haven't yet got any of the items as I don't want to purchase anything before I know it'll work. No point buying concrete posts if I can't build the end product.

Due to complications of varrious ground levels and required change in height of fence, I have had a suggestion made that I use a slotted concrete fence post with a 2x2 batton bolted into the slot (there are holes in these posts). I can then attach the various arris rails to this batton using...

so treat the 2x2 as a batton vertically along the post?

Thanks, scbk, that was my original thought and will be the option I use, if there are no further takers for this post :)

To simplify my question a little... I am looking for a concrete post, up to 3m length that I can set the height of the arris rails on. I am looking at using 2x4 timbers as my rails. Andy

I am looking to constuct a closeboard fence along the boundary of my garden, replacing a worn out, old nasty fence. I am currently thinking of putting 4X4 timber posts into the ground, in a concrete footing, using a layer of packed pebbles in the bottom to act as drainage. then filling the...

Fair enough! Thanks for all the advice anyway! At least I can crack on with the brick work, when weather permits! I'll leave the render until later, when we've had a chance to work out what we want to do!

@tony, I've assumed if I get it rendered, the risk is that the render will fail and that the underneath blockwork could be damaged by freezing and thawing. What sort of timescale could that happen over, in a year or more like 5? Just curious as to what the risk is.

Sadly half the wall is already rendered, so I've either got to remove the lot and hope the wall is still ok under it, or try and render the rest to match so that it still looks good when I've finished. I do intend on getting someone in to render as I know it is above my skill set. I'll...

Sorry, when I said the render isn't on that section, I meant it is in an area where the wall is not retaining, it is just a wall, I assume this is fine to get rendered?

I agree, but it's all historical, I am removing the fence and putting it in ground on my side of the wall. Also the render isn't on that section, as all of the wall is below ground on my side. Short of removing the whole wall and replacing it with a better one, I don't see what else I can do?

That sounds much easier! I'll give that a go when we get a spell of warmer weather. I'll also do the same Ina spot of concrete that I want to render so even if I have to hire it, at least I'll get my monies worth. Thanks for the help.