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Make and model of boilers would help and name on controls, unvented or sealed system, make sure.... before we can advise fella :roll:

What I do, is put olive on tighten onto fitting fairly tight, then undo nut, so olive crushed onto pipe, then apply some one wrap ptfe. Re-fit nut and tighten easily. If it weeps then just tighten a quater turn etc until it is right. :wink:

As seco said, most new toilets don't have fittings to attach to wall, this is for a few reasons, the older toilets had a bigger flush and filling capacity 9 litres, as new ones due to the wter regs and water conservation only flush 6 litres. So, they are fine without attaching to the wall, not...

As kev said, replace the prv, as this is a crittical safety component for the safe operation of your boiler. Hope the installer left the instructions with you? If they did, there is a section in the installation instructions on how to replace the parts of the boiler fella... The filler...

Possible air lock on the primary going into the cylinder :roll: Is there a stalk of copper coming off the primary flow pipe going into the cylinder?

Need model number fella, and yes, gas safe registered engineers ARE a specialist job. No plumbers should touch ANY boiler! They need to produce their identity card to show competance. A national company called Anchor Trust (Part of EAGA Group) employ vetted gas engineers and other trades for...

You mean the installer has left in the stat link on the boiler :roll: Never seen that before :wink: Builders with sparky that doesn't work on boilers and plummers that don't work on gas appliances, quite common on building sites I'm afraid :shock:

You have just answered your own question, if the pump is fitted with a setting switch 1, 2, or 3. Try turning it down from a high setting. The power of the pump is greater than the supply. Why did you fit a pump in the first place?

The problem is very simple fella, the numpty who installed the cable didn't tighten the live wire into the terminal tight enough :roll: This causes arcing and excessive heat and voila, your shower eventually gave up and melted! I suggest you get a 17th edition electrician in or qualified gas...

TPI 323 - Differential Thermometer with T1 T2 connections for clamps for pipes and a Testo 810 (IR) for rough air and contact temps on rad's :wink:

Wrong, as usual :wink: The Temporary Work at Height Directive [Directive 2001/45/EC (amended Council Directive 89/655/EEC)] Supercedes the HASAWA 1974, Manual Handling Regulations 1992, Construction (Health, Safetyand Welfar Regulations) 1996, Management of Health and Safety at Work...

3rd floor! Afraid you need staffolding to comply with H+S Regs, if anyone seen you working at that height without it, might get into trouble and injured, if you have nosey gob carp neighbours! You need to do it properly, if you go to sell it in the future and it doesn't comply with BR's it...

While you are hiring your diamond core drill, get a long extension ladders as well ;) You need to seal the outside to stop any ingress of water or ickle beasty's into your cavity! Otherwise, your hole will turn into a door for the buggers :cry: Make sure someone holds the bottom of the...

If both of your property's have a combi, then the heating circuit should be sealed in both properties :roll: The hot water should be only flowing when a tap is opened or when a shower is operated. If the combi's have been put on an old systems pipework, I suspect that some one hasn't blanked...

If you want more power, then a higher KW shower can help, as suggested before, the cost of installing a higher capacity wire and the necessary equipment can mount up :cry: Also, dependant on the water pressure coming into the building, what's wrong with a good old fashioned hose and a back...

Please don't think that ALL RGI's are like Agile, condescending and ignorant :roll: Your financial affairs are no business of his or our's :shock: If it is a rented property, and done through a letting agent, then unfortunately you have to follow your tenancy agreement :oops: and wait...

One would assume agile, that the people who ask about what work needs to be done, have neither experience or qualifications, blatently obvious :wink: His aptitude is limited, so general advice can be given for direction to the necessary guidelines, BS, or legal requirements :wink: Right...

Is the pump next to the DV in the airing cupboard near the hot water cylinder? Did you open up the isolation valves quickly and is there a stalk of 15mm pipe on the rpimary going into the hot tank?

A competent RGI should be able to do that job in a short space of time. But, I would suggest to buy a replacement telescopic connection to the DHW HE as they fail when being tampered with :roll: Keep the pcb housing well covered as well! Any water spurting on there fella and you will have...

It should be in either CH or DHW fella :roll: A or B...